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Brakes feel different & brake light no worky

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by DuaneDibbley, Dec 9, 2014.

  1. Long story short - local dealer changed tyres on my 09 after I got a flat.

    I get the bike back and notice they've moved my brake lever setting. During the ride home I notice it feels like the lever is engaging further out than usual.
    Have also noticed that I can stop from 60kph with normal braking levels without triggering the front brake switch. Which is obviously not correct.

    Any thoughts? I'm no bike mechanic but everything looks undamaged. The calliper bolt heads looks like the pulled the callipers off to remove the wheel. Brakes don't feel spongy. Harder if anything.

    Any thoughts?

    Edit: It's a non-ABS MT-09.
  2. What's the front brake switch? The rear brake light?

    Other than that it sounds as though they've firmed the brakes up to where they need to be. Further out less pull. You can always change the lever setting dial if you don't like it.
  3. Yes they have to remove the caliper, the rotor stays attached to the rim while tyre is being replaced

    Have you got stock levers or aftermarket?
  4. The only way your brakes could "feel" harder is if he did you a favour and changed pads that were at or near the end their life, which seems unlikely.

    My other thought is that he adjusted your lever, if/when he took it for a test ride... the brakes wouldn't physically be harder but it might seem that way as you wouldn't be pulling the lever as far. Although this shouldn't effect the brake light coming on, unless he adjusted the rear brake, sometimes moving the rear brake levers height can through the light switch out of whack, but it only requires you to lose a lock nut and screw the micro switch further in or out.

    I wouldn't imagine the shop doing any of this and only changing the wheel as asked.

    I know when i used to get my bikes serviced at the shop I'd get it back and they would have moved all my lever, bar, control adjustments back to stock positions which used to give me the shits.
  5. It sounds like they have simply adjusted the travel adjuster to what they thought was more appropriate (they may see some responsibility not to let a bike go out with controls operating outside of a safety cert equivalent performance envelope), not sure what the microswitch relationship is, its operation has got nothing to do with speed fwiw, it's pressure sensitive, simple physical device, it might have been nudged in position in their attempted performance enhancement. Have a look under the lever, it's small, and black. My advice is get learned and DIY in appropriate graduations, if you f it up pay someone to fix it. Not pay someone to f it up and fix it DIY.

    edit and fyi yes you can remove wheels without removing calipers, its fast if you can figure it out...ok spoiler, undo one side of front fender, drop wheel until rotor clears caliper, carefully noting flex of fender rotate the free leg and you're clear to drop wheel completely. Getting it back in is a SOB.
  6. They could have given the disk/pads a blow with the compressor. They could have moved the lever position. More likely the latter, could have done both.

    As for the brake light switch, it's either connected or it's not. It's possible for it to ground out if the heat shrink has worn away, check the fuse. The globe cold be bust.