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Brake Pads - How long are they good for?

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by JP, Aug 6, 2008.

  1. I have a 99 VTR250, and I took it to a mechanic for a minor service and to get the brakes checked out. The mechanic said the brakes were fine, however I'm not really happy with the front brake. When I apply the front brake, it seems to make a scratching noise and doesn't seem to give much stopping power. The mechanic showed me theres plenty of life left on the pads. However I got to thinking, what if the pads are the original ones that came with the bike? Its only done 30,000km so its possible they are the original pads. Do pads become less effective with age?

  2. They last longer with light use, less with heavy. Light use could see them glaze up though which means they squeal and lose braking power.

    If the mech was worth his salt, he wouldn't have lead you astray about how much wear the brake pads have had.

    You might need to get out and do some ebraking and see whether the pads come back to life. If you're worried, it's only $60 for a pair of pads.
  3. Hornet600 recommended me to him, so I'm sure the mechanic is good :)
    I realise its a basic setup for the vtr250, but the front brake doesn't instill much confidence in me. You really have to give it a big squeeze to get decent stopping power, and they make a grinding noise when I practice ebraking....I dunno, maybe I'm just paranoid.
  4. Soooo many variables.
    Smaller lighter bikes mean less brake wear,
    Inline 4's compared to twins hich have greater engine brakes
    brake compounds
    My bmw had done 80,000 kms original pads and because they were so hard they warped the disk and still had life in them
    I replaced the disks and added softer sintered pads and the difference is chalk and cheese.
  5. 30,000kms, 80,000kms. I wish mine were that good. Mine didn't even last 10,000.

    What is the difference with sintered pads? I thought they took longer to heat up and start working properly which is why I went with standard pads last time. If the sintered pads will give better performance without an increase in disk wear I may change mine.
  6. 150km's... About the same as a set of tyres. :cry:

    One thing to try is taking the pads out and scuffing them up on smoothish concrete. Allow them to bed in again, and you might have a whole lot more bite again.

  7. Sintered pads give a good feel, you don't get that instant GRAB that makes you feel like you are being thrown over the bars.
    they comply then bite which allows for smoother braking even when grabbing the brakes hard. You stop very quickly with more confidence which is what I have found with my new setup.
  8. +1 devo
    re: noisy operation, whilst your scuffing the pads, grind or file the edges to create a champher ( if the pads don't already have one ).
  9. Well I'm picking it up from the mechanic tomorrow, so I'll have a chat to him about the brake pads. Maybe putting on some higher quality pads would solve the problem.
  10. if they are worrying you and appear not to be working as they should get them changed (worth the cost). brakes NEED to work. bloody hard to stop something without them. just my 2c
  11. Could that squealing also manifest itself as sort of fizzing/whining type sound?
  12. a 'little' fizz and whine is normal is it not. mine are pretty quiet. factory on the back and ferodo platinum up front. they do pretty good for $35
  13. Mine fizzed when I went sintered... it didn't worry me.

    Right now I'm on cheap arse aftermarket OEM equivalent replacements which are quiet, however they're not as good as the Kwaka OEM pads... but still adequate. I have some sintered pads ready to go when these wear out.

    Vinnie, where'd you learn about the chamfer tip?? I've never heard that before.... sounds plausible!

    When you do get new pads, make sure you follow the manufacturers bedding instructions.

    Devo, that's 150km on the track right?


  14. Ah cool cool. Last time I got new pads the guy chucked on some high performance pads of some description when I got a new front tyre, but that week it was shitting down rain so I was worried I never got them properly bedded in, what with it being raining and having a new front tyre my riding was somewhat sedate.
  15. Something I was taught to do as an apprentice, milleniums ago, Rob .
  16. Yep. As little as 50k's on some tracks. :(

    There's a lot to be gained from trying different pads, and I can only imagine the bite from a set that's going to last 80,000km's!
  17. Even though there is heaps of meat left on the pads, I would highly recommend replacing them if you dont think they are doing a good enough job. There is more to the pads than the amount left -> like material and possible contamination. My front brakes were less than half worn and I replaced them two days ago.

    The difference was like night and day. I replaced the (OEM Nissin pads) with SBS sintered pads. The power from those pads is so much better than the std ones, even before I fcuked the std ones up. Takes waaaay less effort to brake and a stoppie is but a (deliberate) squeeze away :LOL:

    In my case it was coz I *just may* have contaminated the previous pads with fork oil after forgetting to torque up the right hand bolt after changing the fork seals :mad:

    But the point still stands - if your current pads are contaminated with crap, they will brake like crap, regardless of the meat left on them. Oh and make sure you clean the discs (rotors) with brake cleaner (or metho) so you don't fcuk the new pads too.

    For $50 or whatever, it's worth the shot.
  18. im lead to believe the best stuff for the job is Isopropyl Alcohol. it's a "pharmaceutical raw material" :LOL: 99.5%, really good for playing catch up at a party when u arrive late :wink: (im kidding dont do this :shock:). i use it to clean the discs on my mountainbike, and the VTR too.

    the chemist was a bit suss when i asked for 1L of the stuff :LOL: