Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Brake pad pin plug stuck

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' at netrider.net.au started by RedWings01, Feb 29, 2016.

  1. Hey guys,

    So my last thread, I wrote about how my front brakes are incredibly squeaky so I decided to take the callipers off and clean it. The callipers came of easy but the problem is the small screw protecting the brake pad screw is stuck. It won't budge. At all. Its a flat head and I've spent quite a while trying to unscrew it...... You guys got any ideas how to remove these stuck screws? Apparently some penetrating oil should do the trick but wanted second opinions before buying anything.

    Thanks, and also the squeaking has been down to a minimum after cleaning what I could without taking the pads out. Which is definitely a plus but still would love to get the screw unstuck for changing pads in the future.
  2. Put the caliper back on the fork leg so it's stable / supported. Then try again. You should get a better purchase on the screw. Penetrating oil will be fine to use - just make sure you clean it off with brake cleaner after.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  3. Nahh
    Hot axe
  4. Yeah already put it back on the disk and nope. Not sure where to pick up penetrating oil. Maybe supercheap auto?
  5. #5 oldcorollas, Mar 1, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2016
    brute force.
    1/4" or 38" ratchet, with a flathead bit that only just fits in the slot.
    or, square shaft big screwdriver with a shifter to give more torque, and lean into it. (normal screwdriver also works, but more likely to slip)
    give it a love tap first

    or impact driver

    or drill it out :)
  6. +1 for some penetrol as well! always helps. You can get it from Repco. The stuff is worth its weight in gold when trying to undo brake parts..... They're not the kind of thing you want coming loose so they'll be tight af!
  7. Penetrating oil, penetrene, for want of a brand name


    ...or make your own.....50:50, ATF and acetone
  8. Thanks, I think ill go and make my own. Seen some videos on 50:50 AFT and acetone. Looks like it does a better job than most other pen oils.
  9. Why is it every thread on this site returns to penetration sooner or later?? :unsure:
    • Funny Funny x 2
  10. And Uncle Greg hasn't been here yet. :whistle:
    • Agree Agree x 1
  11. It might have a dose of Loctite holding it, in which case some heat will help. Got a pinpoint butane torch? If so heat the screw, and then try with your screwdriver/impact driver while it's still hot. Alternatively, apply some of your penetrene mix while its hot and let it cool, then try the driver. Watch that you don't set the mix on fire though, atf and acetone both being highly flammable.

    FYI Loctite blue needs to be heated to between 150 - 250 C to weaken for disassembly.

    Good luck.
  12. Absolutely critical ,saves so much drama,
    Done a quad bike calliper for a bloke today,same deal ,
    (Calliper piston running on disk ,no pad,wicked)
    Those poxy little Phillips head screws on the reservoir caps respond to a good tap first ,before you
    round them out.
  13. they're not that critical.. they just keep the pad pins clean and less rusty, and act as a backup if the pad pin comes loose.
    there'll be a little bit of corrosion in the threads, but should crack loose.

    that would be Red.. Blue is hand tools strong
    If a garage monkey thinks the plug needs Loctite, I suppose they'd probably use the wrong type too :)
  14. Ended up borrowing a mates drill and it finally came out after 5 mins or so. Thanks for the help.
    • Like Like x 1