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Brake lines and bearings

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' started by Zealous, Dec 17, 2010.

  1. Hi there,

    Is the fitting on a brake line (motorcycle) universal? I'm referring to the actual ring which is usually made of nickle or looks like it anyway. You use that end to attach to your brake calibre and master cylinder.

    Also, in regards to bearings (e.g. wheel) do you guys always buy OEM? A bearing shop is not hard to find and I've been considering replacing all the bearings in my bike; the reason being is because I believe they've never been changed and the bike is now nearing 20 years old.

    Thanks in advanced.


  2. Nothing special about a banjo fitting. As long as thickness and internal diameter match, you should be OK. If the thickness is different, the central bolt will need changing to suit.

    I've never bought OEM wheel bearings. They're pretty much all standard ball races. I've found buying from bearing factors here to be expensive (or maybe I look less like a tradie than I used to), but there are a few online sources if you know the bearing number (stamped into the races) or the ID, OD and thickness. There are also online tables of bearing numbers/sizes for common bike whell bearings. I can't provide a link right now but a few minutes with Google should see you right.
  3. A link would be great. I tried entering the OEM part number into google but only Jap sites come up. Cheers
  4. Find a local Bearing shop. Hooper bearings for one is on Botany road Mascot. They will have a listing or alternatively take the bearing to them. As pat said the bearing numbers will cross reference between brands.
  5. While at the bearing shop ask about different qualities....
    some higher quality bearings offer less rolling resistance/drag or are made of better materials for more durability...
    less rolling resistance was very useful on our 125gp bike, as with these machines every little bit helps.

    Mind you if we are talking about a commuter bike then as long as wheels go round............cheaper is better

    On the subject of brake lines...http://helperformance.com/
    If you dig deep enough under the products tab you will find the full catalouge.
    Better quality lines use stainless steel or titanium fittings...

    If you dig through old posts here you will find a recommended source of Hel brake lines in England...work out about 1/2 to 2/3 the price of local offerings even when the postage has been included. ...when I ordered a set in '09 they were here in less than a week.
  6. Cheers guys, I appreciate the info.
    There's a bearing shop near by and these lines are cheap but will do for my commuter:





    What I will do is purchase 1 to begin with, see how it goes then if all is good I'll later purchase the rear.
    But firstly I need to double check the line length.

    Thanks again.


  7. With the rear line it doesn't appear to have a coating over the steel braidind. I would ask them about that, without a pvc / rubber coating it will rub holes into other metal parts.
  8. This outfit has a fair bit of info.

    This lot are American so I'd expect excellent and fast service.

    And this outfit have what appear to be fairly comprehensive tables showing bearing number against model.

    Hope this helps.

    It's also a handy reference for anyone contemplating wheel swaps.
  9. I've always used CBC and BSC bearings when ever i have needed to replace anything on my cars and they have always been good to deal with and the products they stock have always been of high quality.

    Have you taken a look at the needle bearings and the like as well?
  10. wheel bearings, just ask for aftermarket from the stealership. theyll be the right size and cheaper than anywhere else from what ive found

  11. I was thinking about getting braided hoses on my Zeal as well but I was going to go for the Hel option.

    I have not yet figured out exactly which line to go for, I need to figure out the correct fittings and length etc but it looks like about $70 delivered for the single front line.

    Granted that is about twice the price of the e-bay option but with brakes you really want to be sure about the quality
  12. Yes you make a good point regarding quality. I've never replaced the brake hoses and I believe they're the originals (18 years old) and the rubber mounts around the front and rear hoses are degrading severely. I seriously want to get rid of these hoses asap and considering there's not 1 negative feedback regarding those hoses on eBay, apart from the odd "Doesn't fit", I'm willing to give them a shot. $40ish sounds cheap but they're Japanese made (lol which usually means the quality isn't as poor as Chinese).

    I'll definitely provide feedback on here in regards to these hoses after some excessive street braking.

    I visited the local bearing shop Yesterday and they've the bearings I need, including steering head bearings. I'll replace all wheel bearings, steering head bearings and swing arm bushings (Will need to go OEM for those).
  13. I get the feeling that you are a bit like me there Zealous, I will always find something to do on the bike, even if its not necessary 8-[

    I just cant help myself, I start thinking about something, like bearings or brake lines and then convince myself that I need to replace it LOL

    Drives the wife nuts
  14. Hahaha definitely. I've recently replaced the mounts under the seat because 1 had a crack in it. And replaced all of the cable ties on the bike, in addition I've cleaned all the conductors and replaced all the fuses and bulbs. And now my mind is set on replacing the bearings and brake hoses.

    Also I'm considering replacing the front disc and the bolts that hold it to the wheel; not that there's anything wrong with the bolts apart from a little rust but the rotor is far too thin.

    It's an expensive hobby but I enjoy messing around with parts. :p
  15. If you are looking for a worthwhile bit of tinkering you could replace all the bolts in the engine casings.

    I sheared one bolt a while back and the following day I went out and replaced all of the bolts on the bike with Stainless Steel socket heads. Cost me about $50 in replacement bolts but a job worth doing as I will never have to worry about bolts seazing or shearing.

    I just took a selection of the exising bolts with me down to Coventry Fasterners in Alexandria and told the I needed say 10 of these, 20 of those etc in Stainless Steel socket heads and they went out back and found them all. Very helpful guys. If you go down bring cash. They do take eftpos etc but for a hand full of bolts they might just call it $20 to save themselves having to do up an invoice

    Attached Files:

  16. Just remember to put a smear of anti-seize on the threads, or stainless can glue itself to ally as effectively as any plain steel. Nickel based AS is the correct stuff. Copper is supposed to promote electrolytic corrosion but, in my experience, still does a better job than putting them in dry or with plain grease.
  17. That's a sweet looking Zeal Paul, it looks like you take good care of it.

    I remember replacing all of the bolts around the handlebars when I first purchased my bike (alloy hex bolts) I purchased my bike in 2005 as a repairable write-off from MD in Blacktown (See pics below). All that was needed was a front fender, new mirrors and some touch up work. Me and my father resprayed it to a slightly darker blue without the metalic but did purchase the original decals. I remember standing in the Yamaha dealer nearly falling over after he told me the price of each tank decal. $48ea, unbelievable really.


    The decals was not the worst surprise though. Due to the side muffler damage it actually broke the exhaust internals or maybe the previous owner did it but the bike sounded like an FZR250 race bike. I didn't like the sound so I saved up $300.00 to purchase a brand new muffler and was told that I'd need triple that amount to purchase a brand new OEM exhaust. Luckily though BikeBIZ in Parramatta had a used exhaust and I offered $220.00 so they agreed and threw in a side engine stator cover and a pack of blade fuses :)
  18. Also important is the fact that HEL lines are ADR approved. Anything not approved counts as an illegal modification, with all the subsequent risk of being pinged by the cops or voiding your insurance.

    Somewhat ridiculous given that anything has to be better than 10+ year old OEM lines but if buying new it's certainly better to buy something that's been independently tested (ie ADR approved) than rely on fleabay feedback.
  19. Current ADR allows BS/SAE/JIS and possibly a few other standards, so obtaining legal lines from overseas is a bit easier.

    BTW, welcome back :D.
  20. Hmm, strange that the ADRs would recognise foreign standards for brakelines, but not helmets. :-s