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Braided Brake Lines

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Senator17, Nov 19, 2014.

  1. Has anyone fitted Braided Brake lines to thier late model Z1000. (2010 onwards). I enquired with HEL and they have a kit but said that the rear is very hard to replace. SO I have three questions: 1. Is HEL a good reputable brand? It seems to be and nice of them to warn be about the rear line. 2. Has anyone done the upgrade and can tell me how hard it is to do? 3. With ABS, how complicated is bleeding the brakes? Especially after changing brake lines?

  2. I had HEL lines on my old ZZR600 (front & rear), they felt good, great improvement over standard, but who knows how old the lines on there where when I replaced them..

    And, from memory they had a AUS standard sticker on the line (kind of a wraped plastic) that showed them to be compliant to AU standards (for RWC purposes). My ZZR passed with them fitted.

    I am no authority, but have heard that it's not really necessary to have the braided line on the rear anyway. Depending on how strong you rear break is, it'll just lock up more easily.

    Hope this was of some use to you.
  3. #3 icemaker, Nov 19, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 22, 2014
    Hey mate, bleeding the brakes is easy as but you need the right tools for it like a brake bleed kit.
    I bought the Mityvac (http://www.mityvac.com) and it was real easy to change the fluid and bleed.

    Ive looked into the braided lines and will use Hel if I bite the bullet, nothing but good reviews from what Ive seen. Ive also heard that the rear doesn't need to get changed because of the locking issue.
    • Like Like x 1
  4. How much and where did you get that kit? Also If I change my brake lines, I'll change all of them including the rears. Dont forget we have ABS so locking won't be an issue. When I did my track day, I found that be the end of the day I was getting a Long pedal on the rear brake, that's why I also want to change the rears, not just the fronts.
  5. As I understand when bleeding the brakes on an ABS bike you need a special scan tool to pump the ABS servos, it is not as straight forward as pumping the leaver. That being said I have only ever replaced lines on a non-ABS bike and have no hands on experience with this.

    HEL lines have a good reputation.
  6. Totally up to you if you want to change the rear. The rear wont lock up with ABS but ABS might kick in more.
    I reckon your long pedal was because of the brake fluid. I changed mine around the 7000 km mark, the front wasnt too bad but the rear was almost a coffee colour. The darker the fluid the more contaminated it is, therefore less braking power and lower boiling point.
    Brake pads also play a part
  7. The brake fluid was changed earlier this year (Feb) and is as clear as a fresh bottle. Long pedal was probably due to a combination of the fluid getting hot, the rubber brake lines expanding and the brake pads getting too hot (Fading).

    For my next track day I'm going to change the fluid again, changng it every year. Also getting the highest bolding point ones on the market without going to a silicon racing fluid. I've got some new brake pads that should handle the heat better, but still good for road use as well. And after looking at the lines last night, I'll also do the full set. Yep they look hard to do on the rear but I will work it out.

    My main concern is bleeding the brakes afterwards.
  8. You don't need the HIGHEST boiling point fluid, Motul RBF600 will do for most of us mortals. Also you probably shouldn't go for the same type of aggressive pads on the rear as you do for the front.