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Bought car - towed 1 hour later... What do I do?

Discussion in 'The Pub' at netrider.net.au started by moog, Feb 22, 2008.

  1. Hey gang - just bought a car - Nissan GTiR hatchback from carsales. The guy dropped it to my work today (test drove yesterday) and I paid him. Met with my wife - drove 2 km before heat gauge shot up... 10 minutes later went down and then steam came out so I turned it off straight away and left it at my bros house.

    Do I have a legal leg to stand on? I rang the guy and said I was broken down and he sounded really sorry but said there is nothing he can do.

    Is over heating a big problem for a car ie expensive or is it just a matter of getting new radiator, pump, flushing etc?

    Any help or advice would be great thanks!
  2. Depends on what is wrong.

    Was the radiator full of coolant?
    Are the hoses in good order?
    Is there a blown head gasket?
    Is there a crack in the water jacket?
    Is the water pump leaking?

    Shall I continue?

    Best bet is to take it a radiator place and have them pressure test it.
  3. I think you is fugged since there is no warranty on privately sold used cars in NSW and no cooling off period that I've ever heard of.

    Maybe you could go him legally if the ad was a load of bollocks - maybe...
  4. This is why you got a cheaper price than at a dealer. There's not much you can do except fix it. Sorry, what a shit way to start a relationship with a car. Good luck with it.
  5. Call and talk to the guy you bought it off. Unlikely, but perhaps it was just a freak malfunction that he knew nothing of? He may be sympathetic to your situation and come to some sort of agreement with you. There are still a few decent people left in the world. But then again.....
  6. ^^^^ oh yeah Mario, +1, worth a try. I didn't even think of it because I'm cynical and assumed he dumped the car on you deliberately... :roll:
  7. In Victoria its much safer to buy with a Road Worthy Certificate then you know this type of thing is unlikely to happen. When it is an "as is" sale you really don't know what you are getting unless you have a good idea about cars.
  8. register on forum.pulsar.org.au

    they can give you all the GTIR specific info that you need.

    And one guy there sells big aftermarket radiators, slimline fans, etc if the factory setup isn't coping with mods (assuming it has any).

    there are even a few guys that can help you with guidance on changing out pumps/thermostat, etc.
  9. Sh!t, I feel for you.

    Like what Vic suggested... find out what's wrong with it first.
    A couple of years ago we bought a 98 Subaru Liberty Bilsten Edition - 18K; drove up the coast and same thing happened to us. We called the dealer the next day and he basically said it's not his problem and that it was running like a dream when he gave it to us. We took it to Dept. of Fair Trading and after months and months of fighting we got nowhere and lost 10K instantly. We were lucky enough to trade it in for another car at another deaership.

    Each time I pay that loan off it annoys the crap out of me cause I am paying for something that A. I don't have anything to show for and B. they were in the wrong. We even wrote to ACA, but still nothing :(

    I hope this doesn't happen to you, but first and foremost - find out what's wrong with it.

    Good luck,
  10. As Vic said ....

    + A few more checks : if no water leak is evident :
    1 - Is there oil in the water ?? << possible blown headgasket
    2 - Is there water out the exhaust? << cracked head/ water jacket/ blown gasket.
    3 - Is the OIL in the Radiator << deff cracked head along cam tunnel.
    4 - Constant bubbles in radiator when full << deff comb gases in cooling system ( blown gasket/ cracked head )

    The reason the guage dropped back down was lack of conductive coolant avail to heat sender unit and operate temp gauge.
    Sorry .. doesnt sound good

    If he advertised the car as " runs well' "mech good" .. you have reason to look at legal action for misrepresentation.
  11. "I didn't get a pre-purchase mechanical inspection done, and now the car is mechanically faulty"

    Sorry mate, but you're on your own on this one. Get it to a mechanic for a estimation on the cost, then decide to pay for it to be repaired or not. Take it on the chin, but learn the lesson

    Always always always get an independent mechanical inspection of a 2nd hand motor vehicle
  12. You need to remind this guy that you know where he lives. Im sure if a large enough, non threatening contingent of NR mates were to all show on his street by coincidence at the same time, he may be more willing to renegotiate.
  13. A road worthy certificate olny says that particular aspects of the car are legal. It is to make sure the tyres have enough tread and the brakes are ok, lights work and windscreen is usable etc.. It does not check that the car is mechanically sound or give any feedback or assurance on engine condition, cooling system effectiveness or anything ese that doesn't directly effect safe operation.

    Do not assume the car is sound because it has a RWC. If you want to know the car is sound, you need it checked by an independent mechanic. Unless you know a thing or two about cars, then it's well worth the relatively small expense. :)
  14. RWC will only cover what can be seen as roadworthy. A mechanical inspection will still only cover what is visual. An internal item or any cooling part can let go at any time. You could have it checked today and tomorrow it could do a head gasket.. I once had an RACV inspection on a car, absolute waste of money imho.. Told me what i already knew really. Anyway 2 weeks later the radiator shit itself, there is no way they could have predicted that..
  15. But surely when they test it they will see the temp gauge going sky high? A stuffed radiator will effect the safe operation of a car won't it?
  16. Nah mate ..
    The only time an RWC tester is permitted to fail a vehicle's engine on an RWC test is :
    (a) If the engine has any dripping/flowing oil or coolant leaks.
    ( Dampness is fine )
    (b) If the engine runs that poorly that it consistently stalls, or wont take off at a reasonable pace.
    (c) Blows excessive smoke
    (d) Has emission equipment missing/not connected
    (e) LPG system does not comply etc..
    List kinda goes on , however, the engine temp can be souring, oil light can be on, it can be knocking, grinding, farting, as long as it runs reasonably .. it passes.
  17. The Nissan Pulsar GTiR is one of the fastest money-pits you can buy.
    A friend of mine used to have one, and gosh it was a beast.

    I think he sold it after it did 3 gearboxes in 10 months.

    I hope you bought a completely stock-standard one...
  18. +1 my god brother had one 2 boxes (my KF laser 4wd eclipsed that with 3 boxes and 2 clutches)

    i hope for your sake that is just a blocked radiator (sounds that way)

    and not turbo damage

    best of luck.