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bolt on power/performance gains?

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' started by DC-autosport, Apr 19, 2007.

  1. i own a gixxer k2 600, after i bit more power and torque. a have a few q's if you guys don't mind answering.

    are the waved light weight rotors all that? or are they just an image thing?

    im considering upgrading my exhaust, full system, a power commander, and K&N filter (at the moment just have a yoshi trs slip on). would the gains from these mods comprimise ride-ability? and would the power gains be substantial? at the moment i have 97rwhp, all the power is above 10,000rpm, is this normal for a k2 600?

    im looking for all-round performance, im 65kg, not sure exactly what to do with the suspension, it is currently set-up for my weight, i mainly ride in the mountains, so im not after anything ultra stiff.

    sorry if these are rediculous q's but i don't have alot of experience modifying bikes.


  2. Not worth it for the road in my opinion, the brakes are good on the k2's (although k4 onwards radial setup are excellent).

    Does the bike have steel braided brake lines? Do the front, that's the best braking improvement you could make for the money. Add some good pads and it'll stop heaps better.

    You'll get good gains from this, maybe a 10 hp increase at peak, and a little more torque down lower due to better fuelling, although the bike will probably feel even peakier with the mods. You'll struggle to make significantly more power without going into the engine (cams, porting, etc).

    Just my opinion, but you'll be up for a fair outlay with this gear (look for second hand items on the Formula Xtreme classifieds, often pops up), it might be an option to look at what other bikes are out there...

    I prefer spending money on tyres, brakes and suspension, it's usually where the most to be gained is over standard items.
  3. my tyres are continental road attacks, i currently have a non adr approved s/s braided front lines (will be upgrading to adr approved), and sbs dual carbon race pads, i plan to spend about 4k in the next 6weeks on her, i decided not to get a later model, pretty happy with the k2

    i do plan to do a few track days, but prefer the mountains
  4. They're sensible questions you're asking mate.

    I just couldn't bring myself to spend $4k on a 5yo 600, when you want something less peaky.

    You could trade it in on a k2 750 and at most have to pay an extra $2k, which would satisfy your need for better rideability, power, and virtually the same bike.

    Don't get me wrong I'm guilty of pouring money into old bikes, it's your hard earned, just some food for thought.
  5. i was unfortunate enough to have my bike lightly damaged, just paint scratches etc, it was black/grey so the damage really stood out, i was stupid enough in getting it sprayed without doing some research, i painted it custom british racing green with a white pearl, cost a fortune.

    it has de-valued the bike as i have to explain why it has been painted with an aftermarket colour, instant hint it has been dropped... bike shops dropped the trade in price drastically, so i may as well keep it.
  6. It sounds to me like you want to make the bike more rideable around town, and that's why you're looking for more performance under 10k RPM. Perhaps a simple (and cheap) thing to try would be a gearing change? Most sportsbikes are geared a little too high anyway, going for top speed and track performance - who wants 250km/h+ on the road everyday?

    I'd try a smaller front sprocket and see if that helps your performance in a way you like. The bike will rev quicker and give you better acceleration - it's definitely worthwhile trying!
  7. Want to go faster??
    there is no substitute for CI, get a litre bike.
  8. im stupid enough on a 600 let alone a 1000
  9. Seriously cheapest and best mod is your gearing try going 2 or 3 teeeth up in the rear sprocket and it will feel like 10-15 hp it won't comprimise top end either... the bike will pull harder and u will get a lot more mid range and torque plus it will cost $60 - 100 max
  10. yea i also recommend gearing the sprockets if you want more low to mid performance but i dont think this would be very good for track. by changing the sprocket, you will take off alot faster in a street drag but your top end will decrease by 10-15 which is shit all coz how often do you take it up to those speeds?
  11. Nearly all track 600's run lower gearing than standard, not many will reach top speed with standard gearing so top speed won't actually suffer.

    Even at PI most are geared down slightly.
  12. Indeed - it wouldn't matter at the track, because you'd never reach top speed with standard gearing, even with the long straight at PI. The *only* way you'd get top speed is with 2-3 kilometres of flat road let it nudge it's way up there. ;)