Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Boingk's VTR1000 (7th time lucky?)

Discussion in 'Showcase' at netrider.net.au started by boingk, Jan 11, 2012.

  1. Boingk's VTR1000 (7th time lucky?) - NEW PICS

    Yeah... I've been through a few in a relatively short time. This will be my 7th motorcycle in around 3 years, and the only one made in this millenium. It also marks a milestone for me - paying more than 3k onroad! I pick it up Sunday.

    Here're the pics:

    KGrHqZHJ0E63RuDRWBO8Gsmh4sg60_3.

    KGrHqNHJCEE63UQpeBO8Gsrkwrw60_3.



    Story is that she was originally a cosmetic writeoff, having the lefthand fairings destroyed as well as the instrument cluster and lights. The current owner decided to up and sell because he needed the money and just wasn't riding her... I thought that was a crying shame so naturally did what I could to help out :D

    Farkles include Yoshimura exhausts, billet aluminum bar ends, flushmount front indicators with integrated LED rear/brake/indicator lights and a trick paintjob. Rode very well on testride despite me being somewhat bike-weary, too.

    Yeah, I'm stoked if you couldn't tell already hahaha.

    If anyone has any good advice on these I'd be all ears, not saying I won't be searching but tips from owners are always appreciated.

    Cheers all - boingk

    PS: Anyone want a nicely sorted '88 CBR1000F by any chance?
     
     Top
  2. Nice one mate. They have a good sound with a set of pipes. Very nice.
     
     Top
  3. Bike looks great mate, love that colour!!!
     
     Top
  4. Nice!

    Now go practice wheelies & filling up every 160km. :)
     
     Top
  5. Thanks guys, can't wait to pick her up, and sure thing MV! I don't mind 'short' ranges really... just so long as I can go 250km on the freeway in one hit I'm fine.

    Also, not sure if its allowed or not... but the link to my CBR1000F for sale is here.

    Cheers again - boingk
     
     Top
  6. What year model is it? The later ones had a bigger tank but the early ones are horrible on fuel. My 99 gets about 180km on the highway and as low as 120km in the city!
     
     Top
  7. Judging by the dash layout, it's an early model. So expect pretty short range. Hell, my large tank model only got 160 per fill up. Mind you, i'm carrying a little extra weight myself and the throttle feels good wide open :p
     
     Top
  8. Its a 2000 model with the 16L tank... can't expect a huge range and will more than likely be frequently using reserve but I'm expecting better overall fuel economy than my current steed which gets about 6.5L/100km on extended (mostly freeway) trips. The main thing is it should be good to ride... can't wait for Sunday!

    Funny you should mention the dash, twisties, as it was replaced after the cosmetic writeoff with an international unit with both miles and kilometers. Its currently showing a bit over 10,000km and was apparently fitted at around 10,000km original mileage. There are really more aftermarket bits on this thing than you can poke a stick at - thats part of the reason I bought it!

    Cheers all, I'll do a proper update when shes on the road.

    - boingk
     
     Top
  9. Interesting re the dash. And I honestly wouldn't be expecting better than 6.5L/100.
    Unless mine was just a statistical outlier in the mileage department.
    You never know :p

    Overall though, I freaking loved that bike and I'd have another in a heartbeat if it were a bit more practical for commuting.
     
     Top
  10. Great bike Boingk, I tour with a mate that has one. About 180km we start looking for a petrol station. Once we coasted in to a station with it going sputter, sputter at about 220km distance.This was in touring trim so tents, bags and the works on board. Great sound to them, like hosts of demons are on your tail :)

    Congratulations, one warning be careful of cam chain tensioners at about 40,000k,odo reading. They are expensive when they let go.
     
     Top
    • Like Like x 1
  11. This.

    I found out the hard way. You don't want the hard way.
     
     Top
  12. Yeah I thought it was interesting as well. Also interesting was that the bike shat itself straight after my testride! I stuck around and helped the fellow out (young guy my age) and it turned out to only be a dead battery. I asked for 200 off the price if I bought and fitted the battery on pickup and he agreed, so happy all round really.

    From a few people I've managed to get hold of who've had them and used them for freeway trips they've said that constant semi-legal speeds should return at least low 6's per hundred... but I guess time will tell - I'm riding it from Newcastle back to Goulburn for my first stint in the saddle!

    Hell, seeing as we're on about economy, my most-of-the-time commuter (the XR600R) gets 5L/100km at worst and has a 23L Safari tank fitted... somone mention they wanted range? :D

    Seriously though its good to know you'd have another, twisties, as thats always a good sign. Maybe I'm just mad, but it just really appealed to me on the testride. Biggest grin ever and actually fairly comfortable IMO. Thankyou for the CCT info as well, cjvfr, good bit of info that! Better than 12,000km/2yrs on a Duc though.

    Cheers - boingk
     
     Top
  13. I picked her up from Newcastle on Sunday morning and rode her back to Goulburn on Monday night... and she's awesome! Only thing I found wanting before I left was the front brake fluid (which I changed) and the position of the brake/clutch levers was too far in so I adjusted them. Other than that... more or less my idea of a perfect bike.

    In regards to the fuel range, I decided to test it out a bit. I got myself from Blackalls Park to Pheasants Nest, or 236km, on what the bowser showed as 13 litres of fuel. Economy based on that works out as 5.5L/100km - much better than I was expecting given everyones comments so far. Makes me wonder how they're being ridden and what condition the servicables are in... anywho, mine went well.

    Another thing I have to say is that the Yoshimura's sound great - if you are thinking about getting a set for your VTR then just do it... they are a brilliant sounding silencer setup and not too loud, either. Somone said something about 'hosts of demons' and that just about sums it up! Big grins all round.

    Anyway enough words, photo time!

    DSCF1418.

    DSCF1420.

    DSCF1422.

    DSCF1421.

    DSCF1424.

    DSCF1423.

    Cheers all - boingk
     
     Top
  14. My head is still spinning from looking at the licence plate - are those blinkers fitted in the corners of the plate?

    BTW - great looking bike!
     
     Top
  15. Thanks maduncle! On the plate, I figured it couldn't hurt to use the photobucket.com 'distort' tool to thwart any would-be theives and so on. Might just blank it next time.

    The plate is fitted with alloy nut surrounds, the blinkers are integrated into the tail light. Its has a whole bunch of LEDs inside it; red across the whole lot for taillight and brake light, and yellow for left/right... obviously only one side at a time for them. Very neat installation by whoever did it originally, same for the flushmount indicators up front.

    Cheers - boingk
     
     Top
  16. Ok, so with 10,000 k's on it if its been ridden honestly, then bad mechanical habbits have not yet formed.

    Absolutely keep an ear on your cam chain tensioners, and don't wait for 40,000k's of dread before you consider replacing them.

    At 24,000 k's you have your first major service due, and the front and rear rocker covers come off to do valve clearances. It is at this point that you buy yourself some APE manual CCTS and get them done at the same time. The only reliable way to do the swap without risking throwing out your timing is to do it with the rocker covers off, and it's a pain in the ass, so you will save heaps of time and labor if you just do them together. Then adjust them as per the instructions that come with the manual set, and your good to go for life.

    What destroys the CCTs fast is the fact that there was a bad batch of garbage parts, they were fixed with later models, but the safest bet is to replace with manuals. The other factor that adds to them blowing fast, is when the engine labors at low rpm. It feels natural to ride the thing around taking it easy, only revving at about 3200-3500 in any given gear to achieve the speed limit, but DON'T DO IT.

    Two things happen. At that point in the rev range, there s a bit of a harmonic slap in the cam chain that speeds up how fast it wears out and stretches, and how often it bounces into the cam chain guides, also wearing them out faster. It is in an area between 2800-3800 rpm, depending on the condition of your engine internals.

    It's the same thing you sometimes see on a drive chain where at some speeds it oscillates up and down a fair bit, but at other speeds it runs really smooth. Best bet is to ride the bike in a way that avoids your cam chain doing it. Ideally, they run smooth as from about 4000-4200 rpm plus.

    The second thing that happens when you ride them around all day in the 3000-3800 rpm range, is the engine labors. At low k's and in good states of condition it is not so noticeable, but it is a problem that gets worse and worse the longer it goes on. It starts as a little bit of crackling and popping when you cruise along in that 3k rev range. It sounds a little tuff at first, like that V* bathurst back crackle and popping when they get off the throttle.

    Then it starts doing that too, you get off the throttle and it crackles and farts all the way down through the rpm range. Some people says it adds character, but it's bullshit. It's doing damage, it causes wear on parts you don't want, and it also makes that cam chain slap. Lot's of little backfires eventually make a mess of your engine, it loses it's smoothness, and can take a bit of cash and effort to get right again.

    It comes about because this bike has two of the largest carbs ever fitted to a Honda. To meet certain running conditions, the carbs are jetted in such a way that one of the side effects is that in that 3k rev range, they overfuel. So you cruise around all day running rich, and wasting fuel. Your plugs don't burn right, they foul a bit, you get build up on the pistons and cylinder walls, and the backfiring can cause a fair bit of oil loss through the crankcase breather, the mechanism of which I'm not sure, but once fixed, the oil problem went away as well. All of that leads to more backfiring and popping and running like shit.

    The remedy is simple. Manual CCT's and pick a gear that has you cruising at somewhere near or above 4200 rpm. The bike sounds nicer, and stays smooth and consistent. If you already have the backfiring and popping, it can be fixed, but takes time.


    First you want new plugs and air filter. Then you want many tanks of a good premium unleaded fuel. Not for the octane rating, but for the detergents. I used BP ultimate when I did mine, it took about 3000k's to correct itself. But after that distance of keeping the bike at 5krpm and above, it had cleaned out and resolved itself. No more backfiring, no more popping, gurgling or crackle. It was smooth as a babies bottom again. After that, you can switch back to a regular fuel, adn as long as you don't go back to crusing around in the 3krpm zone, the problem doesn't return.

    Another step that is way more fun is to add a few teeth to the rear sprocket as well. I went two up from stock, it has the added benefit of increasing the rpm required to do the same speed in the same gear. It lowers an (unreachable anyway due to lack of power) top end, and increases acceleration in every gear. It also puts cruising speed limits at much more appropriate rev ranges. That helps fix that 3krpm zone issue.

    One last part you want to get is a spare regulator/rectifier. They blow notoriously on this era Hondas, and notably firestorms. You can either source an upgraded factory part, or there are some conversion guides for fitting a much better cooled and tons more reliable Yamaha R1 part. I keep spares of a few $50 chinese after market ones just to stop me being stranded anywhere, but a non standard, non factory replacement seems to be the most used and long term fix you will read about on the firestorm boards.


    Best of luck mate, enjoy her, and any questions, feel free to ask.
     
     Top
    • Like Like x 1
  17. Big thanks on that post, ATRAffair! Sounds like you're to go-to-guy on these.

    I try and stay 4k anyway as it just doesn't feel as good at 3~3.5k... although I have done the odd 60kmh limit in the 3k zone so will avoid it now as per your advice.

    The bike is due for its 24,000km check so will order some new CCT's - I've heard that Kreiger are the ones to go for, according to the stateside Superhawks forum? Anywho will do some more research. APE/Kreiger... check.

    The bike has new plugs and I have some NGK Iridium's lined up for when they start to go. Airfilter is unknown as of yet but will order a Pipercross if its just a paper element filter. The fuel I use is only BP Ultimate or Shell 98 - the BP is my first choice for smooth running, fuel economy and engine cleaning.

    One thing I don't know about the CCT's is when you replace them with manuals... do you have to set the tension manually all the time? If its only a check every time you do the valve clearances thats fine with me, just not sure how they work is all.

    Thanks again for that post, very helpful indeed.

    Cheers - boingk
     
     Top
  18. Yes. The best way to do them is to install them and set the tension at the same time. Then yeah, like you suggest, it's very easy to recheck them whenever the rocker covers are off for valve clearances.

    The reason for this is that you can do it by ear, but the one for the front cylinder is really hard to get to without having the airbox and stuff out the way. And then if you don't know exactly what it should sound like or what you are hearing, and if your idea of fingertight is different to arnold schwarzenegger's etc. etc. you see where this goes.

    If you do it when you have the rocker covers off, there is a measurement you can make between the two cam gears for chain deviation when engine is at top dead center with the cam marks aligned, that tells you that the tension is right. Then you can just check them at each valve clearance check, or give it a quarter turn if it gets a rattle to it. But if you read around you will find that the combination of the right rev range and manual tensioners results in some guys having done 60000k's or more and still not having had to re adjust them.

    The only other thing with CCT's, it is important to follow the right method for doing it so that you dont pull the tensioner out while it is under load, otherwise the chain skips, and its a real pain in the ass to get back in the right spot. You don't want to have to pull out the cams if you dont have to. But there are some pretty good guides on how to do it, and your mechanic should know about it too. It's only because the darn thing has two top dead centers, 180 degrees apart. One is at no load on the cams, and the other is with full load from the valve springs. So as soon as you release the tensioner, the valves springs extend, the cam rotates, and the chain jumps.

    And yep, kreiger are fine too, they are all basically the same.

    Also, planning ahead, you may want to order yourself the alloy cap in the center of the stator cover, it's the one with the big hex, and the smaller one above it. They have a habbit of being overtightened, and then destroy themselves when you try and get them out, and that's a right pain in the butt to fix. So have spares just in case, and some grease for if you get them out okay, when you put them back in you grease them and the o-ring so they come out better next time.

    The best way to get them out is with PERFECTLY fitting allen keys. You want them to be snug, if they are an old set and a bit used and worn, they will most likely just shred the alloy, it's quite soft. Get a perfectly fitting key, put a long bar on the end of it, and just lightly "bounce" against it, after one or two it should "crack" and come out quite easily.

    Alternatively, if you decide to just have the mechanic do it, blame it all on him.
     
     Top
  19. Thanks mate, great information.

    I have ordered some Kreiger CCT's from the states via eBay so should be doing the modification in the next few weeks or so. I will be doing it myself as I like to do my own maintenance - you know its been done, and done right!

    Thanks again - boingk
     
     Top
  20. That's when my reserve light usually comes on with the f4i, at least for city riding :angel:
     
     Top