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"Blip the throttle"

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' started by Set, Nov 4, 2010.

  1. Could someone please explain this term to me and how it relates to down-shifting, it's confusing me a little :confused: :oops:

  2. In a nutshell you are bringing the revs up to match the speed of the bike for the gear you are selecting, thereby creating a very smooth gear change.
    As you learn your bike it will come naturally.
  3. Lets assume you're in 3rd gear doing 6k rpms.
    If you were doing the same speed but in 2nd gear you would be doing 8k-10k rpms.

    So if you just changed down gear from 3rd to 2nd, all of a sudden the engine has to gain 2-4k rpms, which generally causes a sudden deceleration. (the bike lurches forwards)

    To avoid these effects, the rider pulls in the clutch and "blips" the throttle while changing gears (to gain those missing revs), then when you let you clutch out the engine is already doing the correct revs and its very smooth.

    (matching revs by blipping the throttle also makes changing gears smoother)
  4. Do all experienced riders do this?
  5. That clears it up. Cheers for that, something to go have some fun with tomorrow :D
  6. Im hardly an experienced rider, but i certainly do it. I do it in the cage and whenever im in a truck too.

    You wont need to do it all the time... but like i said, you will learn your bike :).
  7. Yup..I even carried it over when I learned to drive..but not in the wife's auto :p
    It comes natural in no time..but it does help to make for a smoother downshift.
  8. Sweeties blipping was/is mainly used on the downshift (upshift on race shift) to counter the effects of engine breaking (wheel lock). Darlings the introduction of that gorgeous slipper rewrote the rule book. The most delicious thing about modern sportsbikes is that you can clutchless upshift (downshift on race shift) by blipping.

    ..........and some have the gall to call me a Troll
  9. Corrected one bit.

    Most bike engines will spin up and down quite fast so if you hold the clutch in too long while selecting the gear, the engine could well be below the ideal revs for that speed and gear combination, so when you let the clutch out (usually quickly), the rear wheel drives the engine up to the required revs, aka the bike lurches... which can be anything but smooth.

    There's no reason to blip. You don't have to do it.

    You can make gear changes more smoothly by snicking in the gear, dialling up the revs you think you need then slowly letting the clutch out... but blipping and getting it done in 0.5secs is WAY COOLER :cool:
  10. Question here, when I downshift, I hold the clutch in while listening out for the reves of my engine, letting the clutch out when the engine sounds about right. I don't blip my throttle at all, but the downshift is always nice and smooth. Do you really need to blip the throttle?
  11. Yes. Yes it is. When pulling up to traffic lights I like to let everyone know just how many damn gears I have.
  12. do you need too? No

    Blipping the throttle is all about rev matching. If you let the clutch out slowly, it will force the engine to rev up anyway, while forcing the bike to slow down... and the revs will match. This is however putting additional strain and wear and tear onto the clutch / gearbox.

    In cars they invented synchro-mesh, (which isn't what most people think it is) to help with smooth gear changes. Motorbikes do not have synchro-mesh as far as I know, so it really is the cogs you are clunking together.

    You completely change gears on a motorbike (and a car for that matter), up or down, without even touching the clutch. Just by keeping pressure on the gear level and either accelerating, or decelerating the gear will suddenly change when the revs are correct. (as all gears have a rev overlap between them).

    The clutch is really only required when taking off from a stop. But yes, its does make changing gears smoother too.
  13. Yes, it's important... Especially in the wet and the lower 3 gears.

    It's not mandatory, but I wouldn't ride all if I could't rev match on downchanges.

    Please learn to do it. :)

  14. Isn't this taught on all learner courses? On ours it wasn't explicitly taught, but it was definitely talked about and the reasons for doing so.
  15. Why is anyone calling you a troll. Have you been naughty?
    Because that's NOT a label I would put on you, Rattus! From what I've seen or experienced in you posts, is far from that.

    ( although mentioning slipper clutches in a thread where the guy doesn't have one is a bit...ermm...well..non-applicable). LOL.

    Albeit true. ;-)
  16. Dude, where's the "dialling in throttle" step in your spiel? If you don't, you will get the strain you speak of, but even then, with a nice long slow letting out of the clutch, it wont be an issue.
  17. Am I right in saying that carbied bikes tend to handle blipping much more nicely than FI?

    I've only a small sample size to go on but where it was almost instantly second nature on my SR400 and KTM but I still struggle to get it right on the CB400. Actually...maybe it's a single vs four thing, big rev range and all that?
  18. Extra wear on the gearbox? No. Wear on the clutch? Yes.

    But the whole point here is you do not want to vary the rear wheel torque, or at least minimise it, between gear shifts.

    This way you control you deceleration through disc braking only which is more predictable and controllable.
  19. I don't blip. I've been riding for over a year now, and feel pretty confident, but I still feel like there is enough shit to worry about, without stressing over matching the revs by blipping the throttle on the downshift, so I do what you do. Works for me. Never had a problem in the wet.

    Ok, so it might wear the clutch out more. So what? I have to replace it at 80k km, instead of 100k km.
  20. The fuelling system, if it's working properly, shouldn't really make much difference. If anything, a good, modern, EFI system should, if anything, have better throttle response than the CV carbs fitted to the majority of modern four strokes. I would expect either to be pretty good though.

    Older, cruder EFI systems are a bit different. The Bosch setup on my K100, for example, can be caught out by a series of rapid blips because the vane type air-flow sensor can't keep up with the changes. That's a stone-age arrangement though.

    Also, slide type carbs tend to have more instant respose than CVs, because the slide is directly connected to the throttle, so there is no delay in response as it adjusts itself to the throttle opening. However, they have to be set up correctly to offer any advantage, and I doubt if there's a production four stroke on the market that has one these days. They pretty much disappeared in the '70s for anything other than high performance applications and two strokes.