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Bleeding brakes - do i need a vacuum bleeder?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by martyd, Dec 15, 2012.

  1. Trying to bleed my Kawasaki's front disc brake.

    I began by letting my fluid drain out the bottom, which (after much more research) I've realized was probably a bad choice but definitely got all the gunk and floaties out!

    I've got the bleeder connected to a tube which is sitting in a jar of brake fluid at about the same level at the caliper. I've got enough fluid showing in the master cylinder. Tried the old method of 1) pull brake slowly 2) open bleeder nut 3)release brake 4) tighten bleeder nut. This got a few bubbles out but I'm still getting no pressure on my brake lever.

    At the moment I just have it sitting with a rubber band on the brake (about half pulled) and the system all closed up. Any ideas? Thinking I need to go find myself a vacuum bleed kit tomorrow but it's Sunday so I don't like my odds...
  2. If you have someone to help you, you shouldnt need a vacuum bleeder kit. Mind you I have never had to bleed the brakes on a bike, but I would hazard a guess it the same as a car (someone please correct me if Im wrong). If not try one of the "one person bleeder kits" from somewhere like supercheap or repco. They have a non return valve at the end. Have you tried flushing out your fluid and using new fluid??

  3. I always did step 4 before 3. Just before you get to the stop of your lever, tighten the nut.
    • Like Like x 1
  4. 3 n 4 are in wrong order.
    search my post on how to bleed brakes .

    dont buy the one man kit

    be sure to release lever slowly.

    jar best below caliper

    look for my post mate )
  5. My first brake bleed.

  6. MC=master cylinder however I meant brake fluid reservoir. Any youtube vid should show you how to bleed. Basically goes.

    1. Push pistons out, but not completely out, by pumping the brake
    2. Now Pump brake (keep it depressed)
    3. Unscrew bleeder valve a fraction until fluid comes out
    -Note a clear tube should be tightly fitted over the end of the bleeder valve and directed into a bottle to capture expelled fluid.
    4. Screw in/tighten bleeder valve and now release brake
    5. Repeat steps 2 to 4 until no air bubbles visible in the pumped out fluid. Ensure that the reservoir always has fluid to prevent air being introduced to the system.

    It'll take a good 20 or more pumps to even see fluid entering the tube if the system has been drained i.e. in your case.

    When you're done do the stuff outlined in the previous post quote.

    This may not be what others do but works for me every time.
  7. ^^ What they said.
    You know the biggest mistake was just draining it out first. It'll take you much longer now even using the correct procedure.

    I have a bleeder hose with a one-way valve here that I'm yet to try out. That might speed up the time. A decent vacuum pump may not be worth it considering how often you will use it. Persevere and make sure you are stocked up on fluid.

    Try and keep the reservoir full as you are doing it.
  8. Tldr you don't need one, but they sure do make it quick and easy lol...
    • Like Like x 1
  9. No, you dont need one...........and IMO you want to prepare yourself to pump that lever a lot more than you think you need to to get the process going......when I did mine it seemed to take forever to actually get fluid movement, there is only a miniscule amount of fluid going through the lines per pump...... and its got a long way (comparably) to travel, then fill the caliper, before it starts pumping out the bleeder...........
  10. #11 foot69, Dec 16, 2012
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2012
    big bore syringe that fits the clear hose from the bleeder nipple helps a lot.. Farm supplies had mine for a couple of dollars. Used as a vacuum pump..
    You can also fill the syringe and pump fluid into the brake system from the bottom..