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bleeding brakes - anyone used an air boy brake bleeder?

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by Cowboy Mac, Sep 17, 2008.

  1. Been doing a little reading on how to go about this and wanted to know if anyone has used an Air Boy Brake Bleeder? I've done a search but nothing came up on these.

  2. Looks like a lot of money for something you could do with a piece of hose, old coke bottle & a spanner... And even if you buy this you still need the spanner! :p
  3. I've got one of these, but have yet to use it on the bikes. It's great on heavy plant when your on your own and the brake peddle / bleeders are so far apart :? :LOL:

    When I do the bikes I use a 50ml syringe some plastic hose and REVERSE bleed the system. Very fast and absolutely no air left in the system :)

    Let me clarify reverse bleeding, the syringe is full of fluid and connected via the hose to the caliper, open bleeder and gently [but firmly] push the fluid from caliper up to the master cyl.
    For duel disc's do the longest hose 1st, and once you see fluid at the MC stop [close the bleed nipple] and repeat on the other side.

    Easy peasy :)
  4. seems a bit much for a bike but hey if it floats ya boat then why not..
  5. Do you guys ever have any issues with manual methods?
  6. Not really, no. If you're not getting results, sometimes you have to lean the bike over on an angle - air bubbles can get trapped under horizontal surfaces. But most of the time that's not an issue. Clear plastic hose is all you need.
  7. No, no problem with manual methods, I take it you have never spent half an hr or more trying to bleed a stubborn air bubble out of a bike ?

    It's all about time spent, and as 99% of people complain over labor bills as it is.
    The faster something can be done, the cheaper it is for the end customer. OR to get out for a ride quicker. :)
  8. i just installed new braided lines so had to do the brakes from scratch.
    I used a brake bleed one way valve from MCAS (~$35) which was great for the initial stage but when the bubbles almost stopped coming out then it was back to old school manual method which is the best to get all the air trapped in the valve out.
    In retrospect the $35 was a waste of money but I'm sure I'll use it again.
  9. Never taken me more than 15 mins to get a rock solid lever on any bike. Just crack every connector, bleed there and move down teh lines.
    Only special tool I have is a piece of hose with a one way valve, and I don't even use that on bikes.

    Regards, Andrew.
  10. :shock: Quite ingenious Bob !
    Now there's something I've gotta try :)
    32 years in the industry and one can still learn so much !
    .. to find a syringe :-k
  11. Have had poor results trying to reverse bleed the system.
    ie feels like insufficient force using the syringe to push the fluid back up the Master Cyl.
    Found better results this way:
    1 - syringe most of the brake fliud out of the master cyl ( leave about 25% )
    2 - Push brake pads / pistons back ( like you would if replacing them )
    3 - fluid is forced back up into the master cyl
    4 - pump brake lever & top up
    5 - SOLID lever :)
    • Winner Winner x 1
    • Informative Informative x 1
  12. I've used a "one person brake bleed" kit from Stupidcheap for a while
    2 cars 2 bikes easy.....about $10 I think.
  13. I have got 1 of these and they are very good. I use it alot for sucking out the old fluid. I also use it for power steering fluids on cars. Can get cheaper than that though. Think mine was $80-$90 from bursons/repco.
  14. Replaced a front brake calliper on the weekend and used the above technique after reading VCM's post. It worked at treat and I've now got a rock solid leaver. :)

    Because the brake line was completely drained, after initially adding fluid and bleeding the normal way, it then took me 6 or 7 cycles of the above sequence to be sure I got all the air out of the top end of the line.

    What impresses me most about this way of bleeding the lines was the simplicity and elegance of the technique. No extra tools were required. Just a little patience and care to ensure the master cylinder wasn't going to overflow.

    So, big a thanks to VCM! (y)

    P.S. Remember to replace the diaphragm to stop fluid squirting up and out of the master cylinder when you push back the pads.
  15. I've have a vac bleeder, not as expensive as that one. Sure does make fluid changes and bleeding, quick and easy with very little mess.
  16. tried one on a yz250 2s at a mates car workshop. Wouldnt bother, wasnt any easier than a syringe.
  17. I prefer bleed it by air tools.
  18. A lot of crap accumulates at the brake end of the lines due the heat cycling of the brakes and breakdown of the fluid. I would not want to be pushing all that crap up the clean lines and through the most vital part of the braking system, the master cylinder - or still an expensive ABS pump.

    Yes reverse bleeding works... but never for me.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  19. The brake system on bikes is so small and typically you can reach the lever and the calliper at the same time, ring spanner, length of clear hose and a jar. job done.

    I wouldn't want to push all the crap back up the lines either.

    I bought a set of bleeder nipples with a built in check valve, only requires you to crack the nipple open and then just pump the lever, I'm yet to try them as I got impatient waiting for them and just did it the old fashioned way
  20. AKA Speed Bleeders. I love them, cost less than $50 and they make brake flushes a 5-minute no-brainer of a job.