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Birt Bike Hill/Rock Climbing

Discussion in 'General Motorcycling Discussion' started by Browncoat, Jul 3, 2011.

  1. I've had 15 or so bikes since i've been riding. Road and Trail bikes both. 2 strokes and 4. I've mainly stuck to 2 strokes for the bush and I really like the challenge of getting up a rock face or steep hill. I recently sold my 2 stroke(DT200R) and bought a 4 stroke (WR450F) and i'm having a hard time coming to grips with the power delivery of the 4 stroke. I keep stacking it! I either stall it and fall back down the hill or near flip it. The throttle seems to be an on off switch with no in between. I had thought the torque of a 4 stroke would be good for getting up hills but I find I am really missing my old DT200R....

    What are your thoughts regarding this type of riding?
  2. the WR has one of the smoothest power deliveries out of any enduro bike on the market. i'd say it is the power that it getting you, not the way it is delivered.

    your DT200R would have had zero power, so it takes a bit to adjust.

    just double check your rear sag settings, as if it sits too high or low in the stroke it will make climbing hills harder.
  3. Also two stokes fire every second stoke. (funny that) So they don't pulse as much as a four stroke. Especially singles.
    So basically go back and practice slow speed work on it. The friction point in the clutch. Riding the rear brake against the throttle. Bogging it down sort of. You can bring a 4 stoke into it's torque zone with the throttle and control it's ground speed by the rear brake.
    And as JD said. Suspension set up is so important. Otherwise the bike will just beat you up all day. So do your sags.
  4. Thanks for the input guys. I do need to check suspension settings, I know.

    As for the power. The way I used to approach steep rock faces and hills on the DT was to as soon as I got the front end facing upwards get on the gas into the band and feather the clutch all the way up. Worked well for me. I dont seem to be able to do the same on the WR.

    I'm going to have to adjust my riding style you're right JimmyD. I just hope I can come to terms with this beast.
  5. bretto61, riding the rear brake against the throttle? makes sense but seems a little counterintuitive. I've never been comfortable wheel standing riding the rear brake i'm guessing thats similar to what you mean.
  6. riding the rear brake against the throttle is very common. i do it a real lot. its like a form of traction control.

    it takes more effort to open and shut the throttle all the time than to just drag a bit of back brake. because im usually on the rear brake on the entry to a turn, i just wind the throttle right around and control wheelspin with the rear brake. Its a good technique to use when it is very slippery.

    when you say steep rock faces and hills, what gear are you hitting them in? are they just a bit steep, or 'steep steep'?

    you're going to want to get on the throttle as hard as you can while the track isnt that steep, and just try and hold that speed up as you go up the hill. if you hit it slow then just grab a wristful of gas it will just either spin out and everything will get out of shape, or it will grip and send you skyward.

    i would try and keep off the clutch as much as you can, it just adds another thing to mess up. its not that critical to keep the WR in the right rev range, they are so smooth in the power delivery that it doesnt matter too much. when you start to ride the bike hard it will come naturally.

    you really want to be able to use the rear brake well, its possibly more important to offroad riding than the front brake. if you were to see how much the pro riders use the rear brake i think it would be an eye opener. i go through more rear pads than front pads on my mx bike and enduro bike.

    for trail-riding, you HAVE to use the rear brake alot to ride quick. it helps you turn the bike.
  7. Ok, cool thanks.

    The steep rock faces I am having difficulty with are around 70degrees but with sections that are nearly vertical for about 80cm to 1 metre. I like a challenge :)
  8. just look for things on the trail to use as a kicker, and just pre-jump the bike more.
  9. Yeah thats how I normally would tackle them but with the 2 stroke screaming and slightly feathering the clutch.
  10. Zero! Man thats a bit harsh. I find it a bit amusing that I am defending the old girl but it really went hard. It only had a pro circuit pipe and a rejet but I used to keep up with my mates on CRF450 and WR450F through twisty stuff. Admittedly they had a considerable advantage on straights but the DT was no slouch!
  11. Momentum is the key with hills. Lose it and your gone.
    Hit too hard and you spin up the rear or lose control of the front.
    Too slow and you don't have the momentum to begin with and you will lose traction trying to obtain it.
    So it means hitting the steep parts in the right gear at the right speed.
    On thumpers they have a good torque range. So you keep the throttle open. And control ground speed with the rear brake. That keeps the momentum up and the speed in control.
    And mate nothing wrong with the old DT200. I had a WR200 with an FMF fatty all polished. Looks fat ha ha. And yeah it went well on hills. We have a snot fest called Guerella on the Sunshine coast and it's all hills and goulies. And that motor will run forever.