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Bike wont start / no power - Yahama virgo 1996 vx250

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by Kad, Apr 28, 2010.

  1. Hi Guys,
    i rode my bike yesterday to work, finished work. Tried to start my bike and it wouldnt start at all. The lights wouldnt even come on. I took off my seat to test the battery and battery is getting power. Then tested ground wire for my battery and that was fine too. Checked a couple of fuses they werent broken.

    You guys have any suggestions on what to check or try, or how to troubleshoot ?
    Or anyone had similar issues ?
    Or anyone have wiring diagram for my bike ?



    It was raining yesterday so i was thinking maybe water got into the wiring and shorted something out either a fuse or wiring, but this has never happened before
     
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  2. :? Ignition switch has carked it?
     
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  3. how can i tell if the ignition switch has issues ? Can i bypass the switch to see if the bike will start
     
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  4. whats the voltage across the battery?
     
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  5. i just bought a multimeter, so i will see the actually votage tonight. Yesterday i tested it with a test light lol. It pose to be around 13.8v yeah ?
     
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  6. 12.1ish engine off. 13.8ish engine on.
     
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  7. what position is the kill switch in? Sorry have to ask.

    Now, is it cranking on the starter and not firing or is that not even happening? Can you hear the solenoid click when you hit the starter?
     
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  8. the killswitch is not on lol. No cracking nothing is happening. I will listen to it tonight to see if it clicks when i try to start but i am pretty sure i dont hear anything.

    2nite job
    -Check battery with my new multimeter 12v when bike is not on " note to ones self test light are crap"
    - Check Ignition switch for any issues
    - Check for click sound when using the starter - but it wont make a sound becasue there is no light or power getting there but ill give it a go
     
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  9. Sounds like a dislodged connector, somewhere on the way to the right hand switchblock. Even if the battery is mostly dead you still should get a bit of light and the relay trying to work.
     
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  10. maybe but dead battery is the solution to 99% of the questions in the mechanical section.

    its always a good bet.
     
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  11. Main fuse that is sometimes separate from the other fuses? On my bike its a 30A blade type, where as all the others are mini-blade and range between 5-15A.
     
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  12. Hi Guys,
    -checked the battery with my new multimeter, getting 12.3v which is fine
    - Checked the ground cable that was ok
    - Checked the two wires coming out of the ignittion that had 12.3v
    - Checked the cable from the kill switch it wasnt broken
    - Checked the starter click sound - no sound

    The only issue is i dont have have a wiring diagram of my bike, have to take the whole thing apart

    - I have to trace from my battery to my front lights
    - have to see if i find any fuses on the way too
     
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  13. Fuses would be my first move, loose connections / plugs my second. Good luck and hope it's only a fuse.
     
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  14. Pull the RH switchblock apart. check with the multi-meter if you are getting any power there. That will tell you what direct the problem lies.
     
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  15. So, you have good battery power and no starter engagement, and no solenoid click.
    Next thing I would do is get a short piece of wire, strip ends off wire and attempt to jump the solenoid.
    Do this by putting one end of the wire onto the +12 battery terminal on solenoid (the big, bolted or screwed one, use test lamp to find it), and the other side into the small, +12v pull in wire on the solenoid (this will be one of two wires, black is USUALLY ground side, so push wire into the other side. The solenoid should engage and crank engine.
    If it does, pull switch block apart as per sugestion above. If it doesn't, get a new solenoid.
    If the solenoid is O.K, you have a problem upstream of that, either wiring, switchblock or power to the switchblock.

    Regards, Andrew.
     
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  16. Hi Guys
    looks like the Ignition was the issue it was all burnt out
    195 dollars for a new one OMFG
    Thank you for your help
     
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  17. Yep - they are expensive. Which bit exactly was "burnt out"?? The wiring? The internals?? Ignition barrel I'm assuming?? A fuse should prevent that sort of thing - me personally, I'd still be looking for the root cause...
     
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  18. Few questions:

    What do you mean by ignition? The key barrell, the CDI unit, the coil?
    Secondly, what do you mean by burnt out?
    Thirdly, have you bought it yet?
     
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