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Bike storage for one month period... do i need to do anythin

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by hsvls1255, Jun 7, 2009.

  1. Hi guys

    I just recently got my GS500 ( enjoying it thourougly) but i am going away for a month and just wanted to know is there anything i should do when i store the bike.

    obviously it is not going to be started for 1 month so i am going to disconnect the battery but what about the fuel? should i try run the tank down or it doesnt really matter?

    anything else to do??



    thanks guys
     
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  2. Yup disconnect the battery, make sure your bike is well secured and safe and thats about all, one month isn't long enough to worry about fuel, or the tank rusting etc etc etc.

    :)
     
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  3. hsv, with respect to fuel, it's best to fill the tank to the brim. Having a partially full tank allows moisture to condense.

    But as you're only leaving it for a month it won't be an issue.

    As for disconnecting the battery, why?
     
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  4. Some bikes do have small 'leakages' that can send a battery flat over a few weeks, My VTR didn't like anymore than a f/night of sitting around. She would show me just how she felt about not being started or ridden :LOL:
     
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  5. should search maintance or tech thread.. answered many times
     
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  6. I tend to agree with mjt57. I wouldn't expect a problem with anything in one month. I parked up my VTR for 5 weeks over the summer of 2006/2007 and it started first time when I got back to Melbourne. I didn't turn the fuel tap off either. I parked up my GT250 for 7 weeks earlier this year and it was fine. However, a friend of mine ran it for 10 minutes every few weeks. I think he did it more for fun (and went up and down his driveway a number of times - he doesn't have a bike nor Ls/licence) than it being required.
     
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  7. My Duc's the same. Although it does have a flashing light on the guage for an immobilser...so don't know how much power it's using, but more than likely the original battery needs replacing :oops: So thankfully have the Battery Tender to keep it topped up :cool:
     
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  8. If the electrics have small 'leaks' then there would be other problems manifesting themselves, I would imagine.

    But, assuming that the bike is fault free, electrically it shouldn't be an issue. I haven't run my b'bird for nearly a month now. I'll go outside tomorrow and turn it around to get it ready for a ride to work Tuesday. It should be fine. All it has to drive is the LCD clock when it's not running.

    And it's easy enough to check for leaks. Disconnect the battery, get a digital multimeter with an ammeter function, and connect the two leads to the battery and battery lead. Select the amps function and see what it does, if anything.

    Or check for continuity between earth and the battery lead. If there are no shorts, earth faults or whatever, the resistance should be zero or infinity or whatever the meter reads, aside from what the clock or immobiliser circuits, where fitted would read.

    A typical battery is around 15ah or 15 amp hours. Meaning that it can sustain a constant 15amps for an hour. That's a fair amount of juice for any bike application.

    As for fuel, this would depend on the bike. If it has a vacuum operated fuel tap then it won't have an 'off' position. Only "on", "prime" and "reserve". EFI bikes, as far as I'm aware, don't have fuel taps. Probably to protect against starving the fuel pump if you turned it off and tried to start it that way.

    So, it'd be a rare bird that has the old fashioned manual fuel tap with 'off', 'on' and 'reserve' positions, I'd guess.
     
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  9. :?: ...

    are you referencing two different measurements ?

    because there is a bit of a difference between zero and infinity resistance if your not...

    I know shit all about auto electronics so forgive me if I'm being stupid. (quite possible I'm missing something)
     
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  10. You're right. Just wasn't sure how to word it. Some digital meters display "OL", others may display "0". If it's an analog meter, then the needle shouldn't move.

    Whatever, it should read what the meter reads with no leads connected if checking for continuity between the +ve battery lead and earth.

    If there's a measurable resistance there then you'll see a constant current draw.
     
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  11. Give it a good thrash to fully charge the battery and boil off any condensation in the oil, check the tyre pressures, lube the chain, brim the tank, make sure it's dry and park it somewhere secure, dry and well ventilated.

    No more is necessary. I wouldn't bother disconnecting the battery myself, but it won't hurt.
     
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  12. take the chain off so it doesn't come loose.

    remove tyres so they don't go flat and start to crack

    take out head light bulbs so they don't blow
     
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