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Bike makes clicking sound

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Stark, Jun 21, 2016.

  1. Hey guys,

    I recently framed my 15' 500exc and have only just reassembled the bike. With everything loosely fitted I tried firing it up but no luck. After a brief inspection I saw that I didn't attach the lead to the throttle-body- plugged it in and it started first go.

    I then fitted the tank, seat and plastics on properly, but now when I press the ignition I just hear a single click from under the seat (relay ?)

    Failing that I started it with the kickstarter and it fired up fine. About 1 minute into the trip the fuel light came on And it began to stall when I gave it any throttle at all- though it seems content to idle very weakly.

    I began to think it's due to the fuel pump, but when I check the throttle body side hose it's oozing with fuel, so fuel seems to be getting through to the throttle-body. Even if it was the pump, why would the bike not turn at all when the ignition is used ?

    Similarly, if it was the starter (brushes) that doesn't explain the fueling issue once the bike has been kick-started.

    I've tested with two fully charged batteries also.

    Anyone have any bright ideas ?
  2. Dodgy earth connection between battery negative terminal and engine case ?? not allowing enough juice thru to run starter or fuel pump.
    • Like Like x 1
  3. Hey, yeah I checked the +- leads but they are very tight both on the terminals and the frame. I will go check the connection to the starter now. I think you're onto something though. cheers!
  4. East Coast you bloody legend! It was like you said the frame had a weak earth due to all the powder coat. Sanded down the connection points and presto! Thank you so much you saved my ass big time haha. :)
    • Like Like x 3
  5. Update:
    I would just like to add that the volt meter was reading 13v at the starter spade but only 9-10v at the starter terminal, so I was losing volts due to bad earth to engine.
    I have not yet properly cleaned away all contact points so sometimes the bike will exhibit the issue again, but is fixed by un-tightening and tightening the engine bolts back up.
    Just came back from a few short rides, it's great to ride her again, thanks very much!
  6. No problem StarkStark , welcome to the power of Netrider. There is usually someone on this site that can throw you a lifeline and save you a few bucks in the process.

    You might want to fit a cutting washer between the cable lug and the frame, now you have cleaned the connection, then coat it with paint or sealant to keep it corrosion free. Cutting washers are also known as star washers, Google them they are readily available. Don't use a spring washer they are for a different job.
    • Agree Agree x 2
  7. Oh right, you mean the cable lug straight from the negative terminal on the battery to the sub-frame ?

    I'll definitely be buying some star washers to make the earth even better, thanks for the tip mate.

    I might even see if they make some big enough to use between the engine bolts and frame- that is where most of the impedance is coming from.
  8. Keep a bucket under the bike to collect the lost volts and tip them into a sealed jar for storage. That way in a year or two when your battery starts to get a bit flat or any time the battery need some extra help because you are running extra electrical equipment, you can break open the jar and use it to top up the battery.
    • Like Like x 1
    • Funny Funny x 1
  9. Better to just run a decent cable from the negative battery post direct to the motor, or at least from the point where the existing frame ground is to the motor. Don't go sticking washers where there shouldn't be any or you'll move the engine out of alignment with the frame. That can end up causing weird vibration issues, excessive chain wear and difficulty getting both it and the swingarm aligned properly.
  10. or alternately
    get some gerbils and make them run around one of those wheel thingys hooked up to a dynamo
    just get some gerbils
  11. See I told you there is a lot of useful help available here................. But best to just use Dark AngelDark Angel ,s cable idea. You probably have powder coated most of the threaded mounts in your frame (unless you screwed dummy bolts/plugs into them during the coating process). A decent cable(10mm) from the battery negative terminal (or where the frame earth connects) run to a fixed bolt point on the engine is your best solution. Don't use an engine mount bolt as they will probably have rubber anti-vibration rubbers within.
    Don't forget to mop up any volts you spill in the process.......
    • Like Like x 1
  12. Yes, don't leave them to soak into the floor, you could end up slipping on them and get a nasty shock.
  13. Yeah man, luckily I had all the threads masked (stuffed with foil) but I didn't think to mask the mounting points for the engine. Given that everything is on the bike now it's going to be a pain to clean those areas without taking the engine out again.

    I like the cable to engine idea. The battery is earthed straight onto the (unpainted) sub-frame which connects to the steel frame- at two points that are also impeded by 2 coats of powder. Guess there is a severe lack of surface contact area for a decent earth so I probably got lucky when I fiddled with the two engine bolts.

    As for the lost volts, I found some spare volts in an old battery which I stuck in the freezer to keep fresh and crisp should I ever run short again. :)
  14. Just a follow-up:

    I chiseled the paint off on both engine mounting points and she starts easy as. Can't believe it was that simple. :D
  15. sooo
    what are you going to do with the gerbils ?
    • Funny Funny x 1
  16. Gerbils ?
  17. Problably a market for them as power boosters for those little e-bikes.
  18. lost them already dude?
  19. Try the microwave.
  20. i was thinking some where else