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Bike lever seeping

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by smidge, Dec 27, 2007.

  1. pictures speak a thousand words but i'm curious as to what this might be...

    and weather to just wipe it and forget, or to take off the lever and clean and regrease

    i gather its not to do with the brakes themselves as this part of the lever isn't connected to the rest of the system

    also curious how to bleed the front brake as its just a little too squishy for my liking!

  2. That's nothing to worry about; the pin that holds your lever in is greased to make sure the lever pivots nice and smoothly. Undo the bolt on the bottom and screw it out from the top so you can see what I mean.

    As for bleeding your brakes...

  3. That is just the brake lever pivot bolt. Remove it and apply a little vaseline or water-resistant grease to it. Oh, clean the bolt and the hole in the lever first! You also could just wipe it clean - it's probably a sign of being well-lubed anyway.

    Is that a VTR250? Anyway, you bleed the front brake in the same way you bleed any hydraulic brake.. There should be a page here somewhere...


    Trevor G

    PS If not, you need a bottle of brake fluid and a catch bottle, plus some plastic tubing to fit over the bleed nipple on the slave/pad assembly. The tube should be long enough to go into the bottom of the catch bottle.

    Loosen the bleed nipple and squeeze the lever - not too hard or it might just squirt everywhere. As you reach the end of the stroke (the lever is near the handlebars) tighten the nipple and let the lever return.

    Watch for any air bubbles - if you don't see any it's just a spngey system. Keep doing this, but make sure you add fresh fluid before the level drops too much in the master cylinder. Otherwise you will just be letting air into the system...
  4. Had particularly warm weather lately? Guessing that someone's used cheapo grease to lube the pivot which has warmed and liquified a little. Best bet would be to remove the lever then clean and relube with grease that's a little more heat resistant.

    As for bleeding the brakes that's simply a case of running a length of clear rubber tube from the bleed nipple on the caliper into a jar of brake fluid. You then open the nipple, squeeze and hold the brakes to force any air out, close the nipple, and then release the brake lever. Repeat until no air bubbles are coming out but be sure not to let the fluid level in the reservoir drop too low. Of course if you're going to bleed the brakes you may as well change the fluid while you're at it - simply keep repeating the bleed procedure and keep topping up the reservoir with fresh fluid till you notice a change in the fluid coming out through the tube.
  5. OR you have a faulty master cylinder piston seal which allows a small amount of fluid out of the circuit.

    By all means wipe it up, but the fact that you have a sub standard lever action AND fluid appearing makes me think you might have a bigger issue.

    If the piston seals leak, the fluid just weeps to start with and spreads between parts like the lever and housing, migrating downwards generally.

    I have had to both front and rear master cyls on the Brick and also the front on the R65 we are restoring for the Girlie. Happens with time and insufficient fluid changes.
  6. Where in the OP does it say lost or 'sub standard' lever action ?

    He says "squishy" which points to a simple brake bleed.

    I'd go with your option, BUT seeing as there is no stain flowing down from the master cyl piston, its as others have stated. Most likely pin lube from any of the above options. :)
  7. You just answered your own question!

  8. i used a simple term for it cause i'm no expert on how bike brakes should feel... less than 2 months on the road...

    i will bleed it anyway, bikes done lots of K's... putting new big brakes on the car tomorrow so i'll be in the festive grease monkey mood

    bike brake hyrdaulic fluid same as car stuff? dot 4 is what i'll use in the car so if its the same that will save me some hassle

    thanks for all the replies people!
  9. You should check whether or not it needs DOT3 or DOT 4. I believe that some seals in some systems won't tolerate the incorrect fluid.
  10. 1st rule if your not sure whats in there, flush the whole system and bleed up.
    Most brands don't mix well and will cause more problems.

    But yes the fluid is the same as a cars, DOT4 is the std in 99% of bikes these days. If you have some at home before you use it, think back to when it was last used.Even with a tightly secured cap it can still absorb water over time. If your not sure grab a new bottle from repco or whoever, it's not that expensive. :)
  11. Why yes I did didn't I :? :LOL:

    Too much xmas cheer I think :twisted:
  12. :grin: :grin:

    You're going harder than I am if you're still cheery!

    "Too much of a good thing can be wonderful..."
  13. will grab a new bottle of dot4 today to do the car and with the leftovers will bleed the bike

    good to know how to do it anyway

    thanks for the replies people!
  14. Also worth remembering that if your bike is a fair weather vehicle only then you need to be extra reliable with the fluid changes because the fluid doesn't get moved around or heated as much during the downtimes. If you end up with some moisture in the fluid, the lack of movement can allow it to eat away at a particular spot in the circuit. Then you are stuck doing the pistons like I was!