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Bike Died and won't start again.

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by dantheman65, May 5, 2012.

  1. Hey All,

    Honda Spada 1989

    I started my bike this morning and it was running a little rough as it tends to when it's cold (7c).

    I was just heading down the street for a second but the bike wouldn't go over 5000rpm. I rode it to my destination which was only a km away and it died about halfway along.

    It wouldn't restart, regardless of choke position. Basically it doesn't seem to even be close to starting. There is fuel in the bike which is at least passing through the filter just fine.

    Just bought bike. Runs a little rough when cold but fantastic once warm.
    Not sure of service history but enough fluids. Sometimes smells a little fuel like with the choke on.

    Choke seems a little dicky - when I first put it on full whilst it's running it sometimes stalls. Also choke seems binary - either on or not. No halfway. Further, sometimes when cold will idle at around 5000r with choke on.

    Any ideas?

    If you need more info just ask.
  2. The choke on my spada was like that when I first got it. After using it a few times it became easier to use. I'm pretty sure the previous owner never used it. It should become easier to use and after a while it won't appear to be on/off any more.

    As for your real problem, I don't know. I think there was a thread here a short time ago about a spada that couldn't go over 5000rpm. Best try searching, it might have some answers.
  3. Check your plugs. They are probably fouled up. Clean and/or replace them and then if you can start it you will need to deal with the issue that caused it to stop which sounds fuel-system related to me.
  4. Do you park outside? Water in the fuel perhaps considering the weather in Melbourne at the moment. Worth checking the plugs as NSSherlock said though. It will give you an idea on how it has been running.

    Also some bikes allow you to crank with the kill switch in the kill position. Not sure about the Spada, check the kill switch position anyway.
  5. plugs, fuel.. is the battery totally flat? maybe reg/rec is farked
  6. Ok actually had a look at it properly this morning and it seems fuel isn't being released from the fuel tap. I took the tap off the fuel tank and tried to blow through it but it doesn't seem to be passing fluid. The 'selector' seems to work but for whatever reason nothing is getting through.

    I'm going to try and resolve the problem tonight, otherwise I'm going to have to try and get a replacement tap. Any suggestions for where I could get a replacement?

    Also, just in case people are interested - it seems that the fuel cap is leaking and as such could be letting water into the fuel if the bike is left in the rain. When I turned the tank upside down I'd get a very slow leak from the fuel cap.
  7. Fuel shouldn't flow if the bike isn't running. that is what the vacuum hose is for. Suck on that to check if fuel is flowing.

    when you say you couldn't start it, was the starter turning?
  8. For the record, I changed the spark plugs.

    Yeah I realised that once I took the fuel tap apart and saw the internal components.

    The starter was turning. Now the bike starts but runs a little inconsistently. It runs pretty well most of the time but on a quick test ride then it started to exhibit symptoms that it was showing right before it died last time - ie. you'd twist the throttle but it was only going to about 6000-7000rpm. The best way to describe this is 'bogging down'.

    Sometimes it backfires a little bit, not in a big way but you can hear little splutters and quiet pops as you throttle back.

    Could it be a mixture issue?
  9. Water in the fuel.

    Drain the floatbowls, add a litre of metho to your next fill up, and half way through that tank, drain the floatbowls again.

    It may be that the water got into your tank at your house because of the weather, or it may be that water got into the fuel storage tank at the servo. Consider buying from a large and busy and well run (tidy and clean looking) servo.

    You might also want to strip and clean the fuel tap assembly again, after the metho treatment. It might dump some crud in there which has been held in suspension in the water/fuel gum.
    • Like Like x 1
  10. Backfiring can also be timing and from memeory inlet manifold leaks.
  11. tank vent.
  12. Maybe. He did say the cap leaked when he tipped it upside down, which would suggest there's no vacuum building up. There may be an issue with the vacuum fuel tap thingy. I saw that bring a grey import RVF400 with lots of very trick bits to a grinding halt for no apparent reason a couple of weeks ago. The problem gave every indication of being electrical, but it wasn't.
  13. Can you explain more?

    There was a large 'opening/attachment' on the bottom of tank that wasn't connected to anything (separate from the tap).
  14. The fuel cap should allow a slight leak - so the tank does not pressurise or have a vacuum that prevents fuel flow.

    Injected vehicles are a different animal. The tanks on those do slightly pressurise and that's normal. It actually helps.

    Your opening or attachment may be a vacuum line from someplace between the carb and the inlet valve. The inlet manifold vacuum is required to open the fuel tap - or, to put that better, to have normal fuel flow through the tap, the tap select lever needs to be in the 'on' or 'res' position AND there needs to be at least intermittent manifold vacuum. This prevents a case of a slightly sticky float needle valve allowing the entire contents of the fuel tank to slowly drain into the sump while the bike is parked.

    Yes, I have actually had that happen to me. It filled the engine cases to the sparkplugs with fuel. The initial problem seemed to be a flat battery - so we set about doing a jump start. After much messing about, we got it to turn over then start - whereupon a stream of fuel (and a little bit of oil) came blasting out of the crankcase breather tube, all over the battery, and the jumper leads, which were still hooked up... I felt it was grounds for mild concern.
  15. What a blocked tank vent behaves like is the engine intitially starts OK but then you gradually loose performance as you travel. If you stop for a while, it will all repeat.

    You can check by opening the petrol cap next time you start to strike problems.

    Similar symptoms can be seen with a leaking vacuum line. As the bike warms up the lines softens and expands and lets in more air. This closes the fuel tap off and the bike leans out, warms up more and the cycle continues. This can be dangerous.
  16. Not sure if your Spada has one but some bikes have a water drain with a pipe that comes off the bottom of the tank.
    Idea is that water that gets through the cap area is "held" there and then drained through a hose or pipe in the tank and then out of the bottom of the tank.
    Some bikes also have an EVAP hose that goes to a Carbon Canister But I'd say yours is too early.
  17. I've been pretty busy and haven't had a chance to properly diagnose the bike further due to exams but I took a few videos of how the bike behaves when it's just idling (when it starts).

    First Video - Basically how the bike idles and how it sounds a bit choppy at low revs. At higher revs it sounds ok.

    Second Video - Basically how the choke seems to be playing up. 5000rpm at full choke, normal idle speed at 3/4 choke and cutting out at no choke.

    Picture - exhaust. It's an aftermarket exhaust but it looks like the bike has been running rich for a long time?


    Any suggestions?
  18. To easy
    Put petrol in tank
  19. O didnt read page 2
    Check around air filter box
    Make sure its not loose