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Best way to insulate wiring?

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' started by UMGAWA, Jan 18, 2009.

  1. Ok my plans are to remove the original headlight off my vtr250 for a aftermarket dual headlight and as anyone knows the stock light hides within a bee hive of wiring.

    The replacement lights have no space for all the wiring so it eill have to be hidden away behind the new lights, though thiring has severval connectors what would be the best way for me to cover/waterproof/insulate these wires?

  2. do you mean at the ends where they are connected?
    Or along the length?

    Along the length, it will be fine. I haven't seen any uninsulated wire for a long time.

    At the connectors, you're probably ok too - to not bother too much about it... But if you feel you must, two options spring to mind.

    "DENSO" tape. it has a wax on the outer side of the tape, that you "massage" and seals the edges of the tape with,

    Or vulcanising tape - which is a super stretchy electrical tape along the same lines, without the wax and without the mess.

    The "Denso" tape comes in packing tape width (Normally)and the vulcanising tape electrical tape width... so where it needs to be used may also be a determining factor in which you choose - if you must...

  3. you can also cover electrical connections in Automotive-silicon sealant, Depends on the application, and connector types. Tapes a Great option, as you can easily remove it later.
  4. Heat shrink tubing. If the connectors are small enough then one size should be sufficient to seal them and the wires - otherwise you sometimes need to get creative with overlapping different sizes. Most electrical stores will usually sell bags of assorted diameters which are really good if you're not sure what size you'll need.
  5. Thanks for your ideas guys, much appreciated.

    The connecters and the majority of wires are from the hand control electrics so i'd rather not stuff those up with a little bit of wet weather.

    Anyone else do something along these lines?
  6. I put a digital speedo on my VTR250 (build myself :) ) and that wiring harness behind the headlight reflector is a bloody mess! ...and thats even before i stuck my fingers in there.
    The electrical tape is going to be your best bet for those larger rectangular plugs and probably everything else. If you can zip tie the harness into two piles then I guess the dual headlight option may work if it allows you the clearance for all those thick wires. The only other option would be a UB1 (or UB2) Hobby Box mounted under the lights which can hold the wiring. You may need to get creative with how you mount it, but the horn will most probably need to be mounted onto the front of this box. :)

    If you want heatshrink in a hurry, use Jaycar instead of Tricky Dick Smith. other you may get better deals from an electronics wholesaler online. However, you may find that the Hobby boxes at DSE are cheaper than Jaycar.
  7. Oh, just some more to add.

    If you have insurance then it would be wise to contact them to ask about modifications and if you need an auto-electrician to look at it to give it a pass mark for said insurance.

    And, i re-read you post and i think you want to let them hang loose. Zip ties zip ties and moar zip ties!
  8. Finally someone who knows what i'm up against, haha.
    Wouldn't mind seeing your speedo, thats something i'm interested in doing but not just yet.

    Your right, the whole harness has to be rather compact for clearance issues, I'm still a touch skeptical if there will be much space (still havent got around to fitting the new light setup).
    I'm thinking zip-tie the larger stuff into smaller hoops and then tieing that to the frame under the radiator water reserve.

    Thanks for your tip.
  9. gutta-percha.
  10. Happy to help.

    You have the airbox intake very close that. You may need to get very creative!

    EDIT: I'll either make a youtube video or I'll just post pics soonish.
  11. Ahh, too true, looks like i'll have to really plan this out, i'd like to cut down the wires but i want to keep things original if i plan to return the bike to stock, I've already got a box full of OEM parts :LOL:

    Thanks mate
  12. Nah, if it's not shellac coated copper I wouldn't trust it. Unless it's on the HT side of the ignition, where you'll need mica.
  13. shhhh. I'm talking up my great grandaddy's shares.
  14. heat shrink is really good, and you can find it for cheap :)
  15. +1 probably your best option here IMHO