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Beginner attending maintenance course, what do I need?

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' at netrider.net.au started by Katri, Jan 15, 2015.

  1. Hey guys!

    So, I have a Honda VTR250 EFI and I'm going on a free maintenance course organised by Rider Bros. They'll show you how to do stuff on your own bike if you bring your own oils etc. So I have few questions. What's the best way to figure out what I need? They'll show me how to do

    Oil change
    chain adjustment/lubricate
    tyre pressure check
    break component check
    cable adjust/lubricate

    I'm assuming I need engine oil, chain oil and some sort of cable lubricant? How do I know which ones are good for my bike and where should I buy them from?

    Thanks heaps for any advice anyone can give me :)
  2. Just call them up and ask? They would be more than happy to tell you what tools to bring, any PPE to suit up with.

    About the oils, refer to your service manuals. Cheap oils can be found if you buy in bulk and hunt for clearance/specials, as I normally do.

    I assume you'll need the basic tools for your bike if you're doing those above. Get a set of hex, a set of spanners for your bike's bolts, some screwdrivers (phillips flat and cross), a leatherman for all those situations when you need a knife/scissors/pliers and you should be fine.
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  3. They have all the tools there so for now I'm not gonna buy any tools, just need the oils and lubricants.
    Do you know of any good places to buy these oils in Melbourne?
    Thanks, will check the manual.
  4. As for clutch and brake cable, back in the Soviet Union I used cow lard and the green gooey stuff that become lumps at -50C, on a Ural 650 sidecar and a Simpson S50 screamer. Never had a problem then. You could probably buy some lithium grease now but basically any solid lubricant will do.
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  5. Good places depends. If you are not confident then go to the shop you bought your bike from, ask for a small bottle of the stuff they service your bike with and then google the exact same thing up and buy in bulk. Blackwoods sells lubricating oils in 20L can and 200L drum if I recall.

    In my honest opinion a good places is a place that sells you stuffs that work for a cheap price.
  6. Haha, anything goes in Soviet Union and Russia!
    Yea I guess it doesn't matter that much which lubricant i get.
  7. Here, engine oil specification here.


    Refer to the chart to find your SAE spec for the temperature of where you are living (ambient) and where you are most likely to ride.

    If it's like how it was for me (-30 in Krasnodarsk krai, +5 in Simferopol) then use the median.
  8. what does the 4 cycle motorcycle in brackets mean? sorry for probably stupid questions :/
  9. 4 stroke, as in the engine need 4 cycle (intake, compression, power, exhaust) per revolution of the engine

    here's how it works

  10. Ok, thanks :)
  11. Katri, for memory, your bike takes a KN111 or HF111 oil filter, if you don't go genuine and about 2.5 litres of 10w-40 engine oil. But check owner manual to be sure. Supercheap has Castrol and a few otber brands. Congrats for having a go at servicing your bike too.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  12. Thanks for the advice! I'll go to super cheap tomorrow as i'm riding past anyway and figure it out :)
  13. And just to add, as someone who knows nothing about maintaining a bike I want to take the opportunity and get some sort of basic knowledge on it since they're offering a free course. I think I'd be stupid not to :)
    • Like Like x 1
  14. chain lube Motul. Remember oils ain't oils. To start with you should only use oils that are JASO certified. You shouldn't use car oils as many contain friction modifiers which is a no no for wet clutches which most bike have. You will only need semi synthetic oils. Motul 5100 is ideal. Problem with motorcycle oils is they are twice the price of car oils. Motul 5100 semi synthetic is around $55 for 4 litres.

    Do not use cheap oil, oil is the blood of the bike and to put cheap poor quality oil into a bike is very false economy!

    Regarding chain lube, I use gear/diff oil around 90 weight, stick it in an old plastic squeezable sauce bottle with the small spout and lube the chain using this. This is what the manufacturers recommend and it is better than the spray on stuff, though it does tend to fling the excess onto the rear wheel (easily cleaned off using Kero). I have a friend who gets 60,000kms out of a chain a sprockets and reckons this is why. Always lube the chain when its warm (after a ride) and occasionally clean the chain with Kero and a tooth brush, let dry and re oil.

    Picture shows the gear/diff oil, squeezable sauce bottle and Motul 5100 oil I use in the VFR.
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  17. Wow you instead of the chain oil you get gear oil ( does it matter which type ) and that what you lube you chain with and saves you wear on the sprocket.? If you let it dry over night would it still flick up on your tire? I found the problrm only waited an hour after sprayed the chain eent everywhere

  18. Yes, gear oil (any type will do). I quote from the genuine Honda workshop manual for my VFR800:

    "Lubricate the drive chain with 80-90 gear oil or Pro Honda chain lube specifically designed for use with O ring chains."

    I'm sure the genuine workshop manual for my Suzuki recommends the same (but not Honda chin lube)

    I lube the chain every 1000kms (easy to remember to lube each time the odometer clicks over another 1000kms (eg at 5,000kms then 6,000kms and so on). As I mentioned a friend of mine who is a mechanic by trade gets 60,000kms out of a chain and sprocket set. You will get some fling the first time you ride after lubing with gear oil even if you wait overnight, but is is easy to clean off the rear wheel with a cloth dipped in Kero.

    Gear oil is inexpensive, flows and lubes better than the spray on stuff (which I've used before) and easy to dispense out of a squeeze bottle like the one I have shown in the photo.

  19. Yeah definitely gonna be using this from now on cheers for the advice