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Battery question

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by Devery, Nov 10, 2008.

  1. Hi all.

    My bikes battery has run dead. I took it to a servo and they charged it up, but my dad picked it up so I have no idea how much it charged. Anyway... I hooked it back up again and success! It has charge. Horn works, indicators work, hang on.... horn wont shut up. Shut up horn! So I took out the key. Put back in, beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep. haha. While I was fixing the horn (well still haven't fixed it, but it wouldn't sound when it wasn't screwed to the handle bars) the battery ran flat! %^*%(^. Rolling start didn't help, it was like it just when I had no battery in it.

    My question is... I have a 6V battery with the water and acid mix. Do I need to replace this battery with the same battery? Or can I use one of the closed batteries? (is that the right term? Just not the water one). My bike has the washer connections (or metal circles) to connect to the battery.

    Kind of frustrating. But at least I'm working for my bike which is a good feeling and I'm getting to know it before I can even ride it! I love my bike.

    I've spent more time on net rider than on my bike! how many of you can say that? Hopefully not many... But it's good for me. I told the guy I bought oil from to join up because he wanted to buy a motorcycle, nice guy.


    Brand of battery: Performance Plus Batteries
    Model: 6N6-3B
  2. any 6v motorbike battery will do, maintanence free(closed as you put it), or otherwise.
  3. When I bought my GPX it had the original Yuasa battery still in it. When it finally died, I replaced it with a generic sealed battery ( roadcraft or roadmaster brand or something like that ) which was half the price of the Yuasa, but, it only lasted one whole year and then went flat.
    I decided to pay for the Yuasa brand battery and be done with it.
  4. I can't remember now, does your bike have a kick-starter? If so then you shouldn't have a problem.

    The horn being attached to the bars is probably a matter of earthing, so that's why it wouldn't work when unattached. You should be able to disconnect the wire where it connects to the horn till you fix the problem.

    Once you're riding your battery should get its fill of charge and be fine. You've got the RWC haven't you (so it doesn't matter)? I've got a kickstart. So I fitted a $10 capacitor and chucked the battery!
  5. What do I have to make sure of when i buy a new battery? Obviously Voltage, but the battery doesn't state its amps for example. Can I do much harm with getting the wrong battery? Or if I take in my old one they should be able to match it?
  6. Yeah its a kick start Matt. Mine wont run without a battery... or can I get a capacitor? What is a capacitor? haha.
  7. Your manual should say, or a set of specs for your bike on the net, or maybe email the prior owner. One thing to make sure of: that the battery fits the battery box in your bike - 1mm out is 1mm too big to fit! (As I discovered once!)
  8. Oh of course, the manual.. I'll check it soon.

    Whats a capacitor though? I'm intrested...
  9. Just ordered a battery.. Twill arrive on Thursday.
  10. I don't know a great deal about the capacitor in the sense that I know very little about electrics. It does part of the job of a battery, but obviously doesn't store charge like a battery does. In fitting it, you have no electrics except when the bike is running, and the point of fitting it is to remove weight and create space. (By the time you're thirty there are often other ways to remove weight!) I removed mine for the space - I keep a bunch of tools in there, and also for simplicity - one less thing to go wrong. It's common on cafe racers, where people remove the side covers and air box as well to give an absolutely stripped-back look. It's the tradition of 'chopping' or 'bobbing' a bike, removing all extraneous, or all possible, parts for weight reduction, a practice rooted in the days when it made a real difference to performance.

    I'm not sure if a capacitor will work on your bike, but if it does, then it simplifies things a lot and does create a handy tool space. (That's the next thing: you need to consider what tools to carry on your bike.)
  11. Yeah whats tools is something I've been thinking about.I have some space under the seat for a stash of tools.

    Hopefully this battery I get on thursday will work just fine!
  12. One more thing with buying a new battery other than size fitment is left and right polarity.
    It is no good buying a battery with the positive on the left hand side if your standard battery has it on the right, the leads wont reach.
  13. A capacitor is basically a battery in the sense that it is an electronic device that holds a charge.

    In MattB's case and possibly yours too what it (the cap) is doing is allowing for a an amount of electricity to always be available and drawn upon as required for the normal operation of the bike, ie indicators, gauges etc.

    Unlike a battery, a capacitor has no long term storage capacity.
    Thus you'll find gauges, indicators, horn etc will not work once the bike is not running and the capacitor not obtaining a charge from the alternator.

    Hope that helps you out a little.