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Axle pin wont go on... DIVOT in brake pad arm - WTF!!!!!!!!

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by deXtrous, Oct 24, 2011.

  1. Hey folks. After much frustration trying to line up the axle pin to the right *swing arm* on my ZZR (was changing a tyre), the damn thing wouldn't go all the way through! It got right near the end, to the brake pad assembly, precisely. I dismantle the rear wheel again and I see... THIS (below) in the rear brake pad arm thing

    Now, I have no friggin idea how the hell this could've been there when I removed the axle pin, so I didn't want to just file it off, I decided to ask here, in case I'm doing something wrong. I don't think I am though... It's just baffling me how such a divot could get in there, without me doing anything to it.

    So, my question is, can anyone guess what the hell happened?

    I am sure I'm putting everything in back the right way, I have a repair manual so I'm quite confident in that... I'm kind of confused right now though.

    Thanks, check out the pics below :)

    Attached Files:

  2. Ok this is very confusing your talking about forks but all your pics are of the rear wheel/swingarm.

    I think what your trying to say is that you cant get the axel to slide through the swingarm > wheel > brake caliper hanger > swingarm.

    I don't see the divit your talking about? Definitely don't file anything off!!

    Check the following
    - sprocket carrier is clipped into the wheel properly
    - wheel spacers are present and on the correct sides
    - usually the caliper hanger has a locator on the swingarm, make sure it's in that
    - brakepads are spread apart enough to slot over the disc
  3. The brake caliper bracket/hanger acts as a wheel spacer, that side usually takes the smaller spacer or maybe doesn't run one at all.

    PS where abouts in western Sydney are you? I'm at blacktown, if you can't work it out or don't know anyone who can help, if your nearby I can stop by and give you a hand, should only take 5 mins to fit.
  4. Sorry, replace fork with swingarm, ha.. ha...

    Alright, so see the first pic inside the hole there is a line.. Shouldn't that be smooth so the axle pin just slides in easily?

    I'm sure it must go through there, as the pin is the exact diameter as that hole.. and quite sure that's how I dismantled it also.

    Everything goes smoothly until I hit this brake pad arm.
  5. I think he is talking about inside the hole in the top pic Marty....Jiggle it a little bit to get it past if that's what your talking about.....
  6. Awe bugger posted at the same time.....
  7. Will it slip through the hole off the bike?

    Did you belt the axel out with a steel hammer when you removed it? It's possible you burred something.

    It just looks like axel grease in the pic.

    Sometimes it can be a prick to line up everything, just get everything lined up and jiggle it like mad and get someone to lightly tap at the axel (pin as you call it) with a block of wood. Don't use any serious force, it's all in the jiggle.
  8. Yes I dismantled it all to see if the pin would go through it by itself, but it wouldn't. It's definitely getting caught on that 'divot' I did sort of belt it out with a hammer when I first took the wheel off ](*,) What else was I meant to do?

    It's not axle grease.

    Any way to rectify this?
  9. How does the thread on the end of the axle rod look?
    Is there a gouge on the other side of that divot, missing roughly the same amount of material?
  10. This is why it's so odd; there's no mark on the actual pin itself, it seems fine.
  11. How hard did you hit it to make it go in? If the holes are not perfectly lined up it is very easy to make the sharp shoulder on the wheel spindle gouge the soft (very soft on a Jap bike) ally that the brake carrier is made from, producing a mark just like the one shown. On many bikes, if you're reasonably strong or careless of long-term damage to your hands, you can raise a pretty good burr without even resorting to a hammer.

    The good news is it's not fatal to the component. If you can't get the spindle through, don't file anything. Get something like a pen-knife blade in there and pare down the burr in small stages. Like I said, the alloy is soft so it's easy to do and you are more likely to preserve the undamaged area of the bore than you are if you just whale away with the ol' rat-tail.

    Did I say the ally is soft? Most of you really wouldn't believe how soft the stuff the Japanese cast their motorcycles from is.
  12. use a rubber mallet or a soft block of timber to gently tap it out. As pat said everything is soft so it's extremely easy to damage things.

    The way I do it is lightly tap the axel out with a price of wood, using very small taps. When I feel it bind on something instead of hitting it harder jiggle the wheel etc while lightly tapping so it finds it's way through. Any decent force will risk ruining the thread or something else in your case.

    Since we've established that it's not supposed to be there, I guess your are going to have to file it. Just go slowly. If you destroy it (unlikely) atleast it's a part that can be easily replaced.
  13. Before a file, I'd be trying Pat's suggestion or even the round shaft of a screwdriver, pressed against the burr and rolled around a bit to flatten...