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Anyone have tips on knocking down the price?

Discussion in 'Bike Reviews, Questions and Suggestions' started by Guru, Jun 14, 2008.

  1. Hey I wasnt too sure where to whack this thread, but as the index has thoughts and suggestions, I thought id put it in here.

    I was wondering if there are any tricks or tips anyone has to knock down the price of a bike. Its a second hand GSF250v for $3500. Its only got 3months rego left, so I was going to use that as a starter to get a little bit off the price.

    Anyone else know any other things to point out?

    Oh yeah, the bikes in not too bad nick either, and its done 30000kms and is a 2000model.

    Any suggestions would be helpful.

  2. take 3 grand in $20 bills and lay it out on the table and say "take it or leave it", and if he says "no, i want $3250", collect the cash of the table and say "i said take it or leave it, call me when your ready to deal", you need to take control of the situation and show whos boss.
  3. To be honest mate, it actually sounds like a fair deal as is..........

    Regards, Andrew.
  4. 2000 SUZUKI GSF250V

    Cycle Road Manual 6sp 250cc
    Trade in price guide* $2,000 - $2,400
    National average price - private sale* $3,100 - $3,700
    Price when new (RRP) $7,490
  5. Yeah it is, but Ive got to haggle for the sake of haggling :p Haha
  6. Yeah cheers for that.

    When i searched i got this


    What site did you use?
  7. no worries mate, glad to help
  8. if its a 2000 model, relatively low KM.. looks like its been looked after , typhoon has basically hit the nail on the head. TBH it already looks like a great deal, but u can always try haggling. just say. 3100 blahblah blah

    hell i paid 3400 for mine! and its sorta older than urs
  9. Yeah I was going to putting 3000 but thought that too low, so i was thinking 3100, and then theyll probably increase it to abou 3300 and so hopefully we can settle around 3200. Well thats the plan anyway. Haha

    Seeing as you have one, does it have storage under the seat? And also does it have a kick started at the side? I forgot to check when I went to the garage.

  10. sorry mate
    i don't have a Bandit (i have a hornet)
    sorry for making you interpret wrong

    but no the bandit does not have a kickstart.. it has an electric start. you can push start it if your battery is f**ed but thast another story lol
  11. Lol ok cheers. Was hoping it has a kick starter too, Ive heard the push start is quite a rigorous process. But anyway. lol
  12. Easy way to knock some $$$ of the price.

    Change and sprocket. Good or bad? Bad = -$300
    Last brake fluid change. More than or about 2 years ago. = -$100
    Valve check. Ever been done?? If not then -$200
    How old are sparkies? Older than 10,000kms? yes = -$100

    There are numerous things like this as well as rego that you can use to knock the $$$ down. You just have to ask the right questions.

    I wish I had known this before I bought my bike. Cost me an extra $400 to get a new chain and sprockets practically right after I got it.
  13. Thanks for those! If you remember anything else that would be great!
  14. Look over the bike and if you are happy with it, then offer what YOU think it is worth.

    Seller will either educe price for sale, or will say no thanks, that is then your chance to up the offer.

    1st rule of negotiation, is that you can always go up as the buyer, but can't go down as the negotiating moves forward.

    If you want to pay $3K, then offer $3K! You may be surprised, the seller might be motivated and if has had it for a while with no success @ $3500, well they may just give it to you and you have saved $500 straight up. for a $3500 asking price on something, I would certainly have no problem offering $3000 (if thought it was worth at least that) and if the seller says no, then walk away, and say call me if you change your mind. You will often find a seller will call you within a day or two and take your offer, because they think about it afterwards and realise there is a no hassle sale waiting to happen with cash available, an then the headache is over, so they resign to that and take it.

    The risk is for you, that if the seller lets yo walk away, someone else may come and pay more in the following few days, but my experience has been that for the sake of $500 on an item of that value, sellers will often cave in within a few days and take your lesser offer, of course even bigger discounts can be had on higher priced bikes.

    When I bought my 03 GSXR1000 brand new, I saved $1500 off the already very reasonable asking price, because I set my price to the dealer and he refused, so I walked away saying the offer is there if you decide to change your mind, and of course we were both waiting for the other to cave in, when a week later the dealer called me and accepted my offer for a cash sale.

    The best way to get a better price is you must deal with cash, and it must be in your pocket there and then. I saved $3500 when I bought my WRX because I had $30K cash in my pocket when I went to inspect the car. I drove the seller to his bank and made the deposit to his account.

    Cash is king!
  15. It's supply and demand- as others have noted- you have to know what you want to pay- and then be prepared to walk away if you don't get it for the price you want.

    On the other side of the fence- the seller has to have a minimum that he wants- and be prepared to not make a sale if he doesn't reach that minimum.
  16. The seller may like an easy sale for less $$ than he planned, but the other question to ask, do you want an easy buy for more $$ than you planned?

    It's easy to get carried away with haggling for the sake of it. Put it in perspective, you're talking about $100 or $200 here.... What's your time worth? Presumably you've gotta drive to see the bike? You might miss out on the bike and then have to waste more time trying to find the same deal again.