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Anyone Handy With Car Audio? Nsw

Discussion in 'The Pub' at netrider.net.au started by gsxrjames, Nov 25, 2012.

  1. Hi hi

    We've got an old car with one working speaker...
    I'm hoping to make it livable for long drives over the holidays. The problem is the oem 'premium' Bose system is a tad messey for my tinkering skills. I've bought a basic head unit and for the life of me, I can't get it to power up.
    All I'm interested in connecting is the battery, accessory, aerial and ground.
    I'll hookup some speakers directly and bypass the crapy speakers with integrated amps.

    So is anyone in syd handy with this stuff and willing to help me out for a slab?
    I can't imagine it taking too long. Just need to identify the wires I need (no chart :( )

    Failing that, does anyone know of a decent installer who''ll do a quick/cheap job?

  2. Surely you have a wiring pattern to go by? Can you meter it out?

    If you were in Melb I'd be happy to help........

    Good luck with it :D
  3. Take the make and model of car along with the Make and model of head unit to jb hifi or some decent car audio shop and ask for an ISO adapter

    Pending on make and model that your working with you should hopefully be able to plug and go

    As far as the speakers go you'll need to find out if they are running off the amp or head unit

    If its the head unit there will usually be 8 wires paired into 4 colours
    Something else
    Or some variation

    Ignore red , yellow , brown , black
    These are power related

    Blue I think is remote antenna

    When you find the speaker wires say 2 purple
    One wire will have a line on it and the other wont
    Positive and negative
    Be sure to match them correctly at each end, speaker and head unit/amp

    If you run an amp into the boot be sure to run power cables along one side of car and any speaker wire on opposite side of car to avoid interference
    (Unlike a friend who couldn't be bothered lifting the carpet and drilled through boot and cable tied wires to exhaust lol)

    I don't know if I have helped you at all but either way good luck

    Rant over
  4. Thanks.
    Harnesses are not really worth it as I'm not planning to use any of the cars equipment, just need power. Also I'd need to order from the US and cant be certain it would work. The car currently has an amp for each speaker, all of which are stuffed so I'll just rewire from scratch.
    I'm fine wiring speakers, it's just impossible to find a correct wiring diagram for this system.

    Might have to go to a pro, just worried about them wanting to do everything and sell an entire system when all I need is a few wires connected.
    Thanks anyways
  5. What car is it
    What head unit do you have
    What colour wires are going into the old head unit
    If your gong to install a new system then you basically only need to find a good power source from the ignition (which in theory, shouldn't be too difficult)

    I'm guessing you have 1 x 4ch amp running all speakers
    If so just make sure the amp doesn't have an iffy channel before you right the speaker off unless your going to upgrade then anyway

    Pity your not in Vic eh
  6. 93' maxima
    Every color combination possible. There's about 15 wires to the old HU. 4 separate amps, each powering a speaker, rear amps powering 2way speakers and the front amps powering components in the doors.
    I'm sure it was great 20 years ago but junk today.
    You're right, all I really need is power, ground and antenna control so in theory is should be easy, but I got nothing. I'll have another play next weekend. Hopefully I just made a stupid mistake.

    Things would be heaps easier back in mebl...
  7. you NEED a tedt light or multi meter,
    start at fuses cos you probbally blew the radio
    fuse ( well u might off soz )
    then turn acc on at ign and find the friggin power
    if thats to hard take your car to a pro
    full stop
  8.  Top
  9. Oh damn
    Beaten to it lol

    That's the stupidest colour coding I've seen for a while
  10. Thanks. That's the chart I tried to follow but I think its wrong. It lists 6X9 rears and mines only got 6's so I think the chart is for the base, non Bose/amplified system. ive also got spotted wires which i havent seen before...I'll have another go with a multimeter.
    Offer of a slab still stands though if someone can power it up :)
  11. I confirmed the constant power wire with a multimeter but still can't manage to identify the ignition wire. From the chart above it's blue, but this is what I'm looking at.

    As you can see, two blue wires. One with red dots. I still can't be certain I've found a good ground. The original unit grounds through the antenna cable but as I haven't got an adapter yet, I can't try this.

    I'll hopefully get an adapter soon so I can be certain of the ground. Given the above, does anyone have any other ideas?

    I'm using crimps and fairly certain all connections are solid.
    I don't think it's a fuse issue as the new unit powers when connected directly to the battery and the old equipment still works fine... sigh
  12. I usually don't have too many issues
    - disconnect it from the unit
    - turn ignition on
    - check all the wires with one of the circuit probes
    - find out which two are delivering power - find out which one stops when I turned the ignition off.
    Generally works for me :)
  13. And grounding I usually just do straight to an exposed metal part of the frame
  14. Where abouts in sydney are you?, the ground just run a new small wire to a metal part of the cars body, sand a small bit of paint off and put a screw through it, wrap the copper around the screw and tighten the screw (please check to make sure you don't screw into anything on the other side). Then just use the ground and go through the other cables switching the ignition on/off to see which one gives you 12v when the ignition is switched to the accessory position
  15. trouble shooting 101 , check fuse box/ it really should not be hard to get running
  16. 1/2hour of day light and a working multimeter did the trick. My old one had faulty test leads.
    Thanks, all sorted.