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Anyone familiar with electronics? Need advice

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by johnnywalker, Sep 28, 2012.

  1. Hi guys, first time poster here.

    Anyways, i recently have brought a honda VTR250 just a few weeks ago. Unfortunately, last sunday my bike was stolen. And luckily on the same day it was found.

    Anyways, still in good nick. Just need to bent the shiftier fork back out again (sigh) and also need to fix the loom again.

    Hence im asking since this little kids cut the loom (to start the motorbike) to the point that the wires are not connecting. I was wondering if i can just go to jaycar and buy a particular wire such as a 10 amp (or watt) and use that loom to patch the ignition again.

    Any advice is appreciated.
  2. Well mmm ok i ll will jump in
    Wire is copper right
    Same for same in diameter will get u
    Over the line bigger is cool smaller is
    Not cool.
    Stay cool .
    O solder would be smart an tonns of
    • Like Like x 1
  3. So pretty much they've just cut the wires before they enter the loom (power & ignition) and used that to start the bike? And you're asking if you can just use wire to connect those cables back to the ignition?

    Edit: Or did they actually cut into the loom itself? A pic would be great :p

    Oh, and welcome to NR!
  4. If the wires reach but dont overlap you might be able to fit each end into at terminal block with out the need to extend the wires*

    *disclaimer: I really have no idea but it is what I would probably do.
  5. U can certainly just patch it with same guage wire, just twist them together good if u can't solder, make sure u wrap them well with electrical tape and away u go
  6. Heat shrink will make sure no-one ever sees your soldering skills!

    Get wire of at least the same diameter and get it the same color too (to avoid getting too confused). Also get heat shrink.
    Strip off the 5mm from all the ends you want to join.
    Tin all the ends you want to join -- this means heat up the wire with your soldering iron and then let the wire suck up solder. You might need to put some solder directly on the soldering iron to get better heat transfer, but you're not plastering. Solder for the joint should be melted by contact with the wire.
    Slip the heatshrink into the right spot (think about it). If there is no room for the heatshrink to sit at this step just use self amalgamating tape.
    Sweat the tinned ends together by holding them next to each other and heating. Once solder starts to flow you can add some more but that requires a 3rd (or 4th) hand and can be tricky. The sweated joint will be fine -- especially under heat shrink.
    Slide the heatshrink over the joint and rub it with the side of the soldering iron to shrink it down. If you're lazy this is the step where you use self amalgamating tape (like me).
  7. If you do solder it back together, make sure that you haven't left any pointy bits on your soldering; you don't want the solder to puncture the heatshrink/tape/whatever and contact things that it shouldn't.
  8. get some adhesive heatshrink. its the same as regular heat shrink, just it has an extra lining of adhesive that will stick it to the wires, creating a close to waterproof seal. will also add a bit more strength to the joint if your soldering skills arent quite up to scratch
  9. Solder is a must. If you can't solder, get someone who can to help you.

    Double walled heatshrink, as has been said, electrical tape is NOT an option.

    Bikes are outdoor creatures, even if you garage it, it is exposed to the elements much more than a car, corrosion & gremlins will set in quickly!

    Do it right, do it once & you won't ever have to do it again.

    The ignition circuit is not a circuit that you can afford to be dodgy, imagine it cutting out mid corner, or in peak hour traffic :eek:

    Oh, on the terminal block Smileedude posted, bad idea, sorry Smileedude.

    If you need wire to join it, go to Supercheap & get wire of the same thickness or thicker, this will ensure your bike doesn't catch on fire. Keep the colour coding if possible, a bunch of the same colour wire is a real pain in the arse to trace if there are any problems.

    Good luck!
  10. it will be cheaper to go to jaycar, they also have gluey heatshrink, and you can buy wire by the meter, instead of overpriced 5 meter spools.
  11. Not a problem, i need to refrain from giving advice while drunk, especially shit I have no clue about.
  12. Lol smily your idea would work fine but
    Just wouldnt be strong enough to last
    Those things are for non movement items

    Plus it bulk up pretty fast
  13. Please don't, those are often the best posts!

    Corrosion sets in pretty quick with those terminal blocks, plus each piece has two screws that can fail/fall out. There's just no substitute for a good solder job
  14. I'd suggest to the OP that he refrain from doing this himself, the way he's asked for advice tends to indicate he's probably not competent (no offence intended), it's too easy to fsck up a repair like this where there's probably limited space and spare length to work with, and a fscked up attempt will make it 10 times harder to do properly the second time, including repairing collateral damage- once again, no offence intended but I'm trained in high reliability hand soldering and speak from bitter experience.

    As others have suggested, a well done splice protected by adhesive heatshrink will be as good as new, enlist someone's help- preferably someone who's got some professional experience at good quality soldering, watch and learn.

    Wherefore art thou? I'm sure there'll be some expertise nearby...

  15. What (if any) failures have you seen with self amalgamating tape in non-UV exposed non-mechanically strained situations? I ask because I spliced some extra brake lights, led-head lights and indicators in using that technique and am curious how long it will last. Note that I did all of this "after" the plugs for the lights so it won't be too expensive to undo 8-[
  16. I've had no professional experience in the specific conditions existing in the loom of a motorcycle so the accurate answer is nfi, however:
    - self amalgamating tape (23 or something?) should remove any concern about crap wicking if it's been properly applied so corrosion shouldn't be a problem, it can also help to reduce the hard point, once again if properly applied. I'd reckon thermo adhesive heatshrink is better though. Neater too.
    - no strain is relative, it's potentially a high vibration environment so there's going to be mechanical issues. The tape may provide enough support but a bit of mechanical support, eg a twist or a single strand wrap'd be a good idea. Supporting on the rest of the loom'd help, too.
    -presupposing a good quality joint there shouldn't be too much drama given the above.

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