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Another Oil Question

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by Fleb, Mar 10, 2008.

  1. Hey all,

    I know this topic has been discussed a million times before but the information I seem to find is inconclusive.

    I have a 2000 GPX250 which has been on mineral based oil its entire life of 24,000km and am looking at switching to Redline oil full synthetic (10W40).

    Will switching from mineral to synthetic cause issues?

    Are redline oils for the $80 for 2L really that good?

    Kind Regards,


  2. Thats expensive for only 2 litres?

    Shouldn't cause any problems.
  3. I should explain what is causing the change.

    I currently have a horrible clutch as it never disengages the drive correctly. The bike has a large amount of gear lurch when changing into first gear and is very ruff to change gears.

    I have inspected the friction plates and they are all file but the outer housing has bad wear marks that i am thinking maybe the issue.

    Figured would try new clutch (including housing) and the best oil you can buy and see if that fixes it.

    Thanks all,

  4. Synthetic oils are much thinner. It could feel like its a bit notchy on gear changes, although being a Kwaka probably already does. It may use a little oil to start with, but seeing as though your engine only has low k's it may be ok and not use any oil.. It may also run a little hotter as well..

    Personally i wouldn't waste the money on full synthetic oil, not saying synthetic oil isnt any good, it is the ducks guts. But i think these days its more for race engines, when the mineral or semi synthetic oils are so good these days.

  5. Absolute waste of money. The oil, especially! :)


    Trevor G
  6. I have had 3 people tell me the clutch just needs adjusting and all 3 of them fail and tell me something else is the cause.

    If the bike is off and has been sitting for more than 60 seconds you can not push it with the clutch in and in first gear.

    Holding the clutch in for 30 seconds and changing into gear it will still clunk the same.

    I havent tried shifting into 2nd but will try tomorrow on way to work.

    The oil the kawi dealer used seemed to make it worse than it previously was. I am not sure if this is just because it has gone from mostly highway riding to around town and am just noticing it more.

    Ok i have looked at the centre hub and it has wear marks. I have attached a few pictures

    Both the pictures are were taken about 2 months ago


  7. Are you aligning the end plate (spring plate?) with the basket? Theres a mark on both... somewhere.
    Its in the (Service) manual for the gpx on page... 95 (5-7), and I have heard someone else on another forum say it fixed their problems, anyway... to quote:

    I got the manual from the Kawasaki sportsbike forum, if you don't have it, send me a PM and Ill send you the link if you want.
  8. Yep i am aligning it right.

    It has two arrows.
  9. Mate, for some (or several) reasons your clutch in not disengaging.
    Check your cables and linkages.
    I'm not sure if you can go from N to 2nd. If the box is the same as the ZZR you cant as they have a positive N.
    After checking cables etc I would throw some semi synth oil in as light as the manual specifies. Try a much cheaper Mobil 1.
    If that doesn't help you have a mechanical issue that needs investigation by a Kawa mechanic. You may need the clutch pulled out and re assembled.

    EDIT: Does the clutch disengage if you just work the actuating arm? (not the lever at the bars)
  10. Ok, i just got a quote on just a new basket and it is $340..... :(

    How dodgy is it to file down the wear marks on the baskets?

    In the pictures do they look really bad?

    Thanks for help.

  11. So you like to waste money on oil and clutches :LOL:

    Someone more intimate with GPX than me can comment but I would have thought the clutch would need replacing if its slipping, not binding.
  12. ID class the housing that contains the pressure friction plates as a whole clutch.

    As detailed in the picture above there are large grooves in the inner and outer housing that holds the plates. If the outer plate is disengaging while the others remain in place because of the grooves id say it is posibly worse than if the clutch was slipping. (friction plates easy fix). Is basicly changing the gears the whole time with no clutch which is ok for shifting up but bad for downshifting which is where the majority of issue is.

    Not fixing this could mean new gearbox if not fixed after talking to a mechanic today for a little advise. Seems to think that it is the grooves causing the problem. He wouldnt comment on using a file to knock the tops of the grooves out and smoothing it out.

    Does anyone have any advise that could lead me in the right way?

    Trevor mentioned a file above. Has anyone does this?

  13. Before spending any money, get hold of a manual and try adjusting the clutch push-rod. Slacken the clutch cable right off, adjust the clutch pushrod. Then re-adjust the cable to give the required free play and oil it for good measure.

    I don't know the GPX motor at all but the push rod is usually under a small cover on the left hand side engine case (sprocket cover), or a lever that sticks out of the top of the clutch cover on the Right Hand Side.

    Clean up the metal clutch plates while you're there. If your clutch has been slipping for long, the plates mayhave overheated. Make sure the metal ones aren’t blue and/or warped. Look at the fibre plates, they should have plenty of meat on the ridges/teeth on the outside edge. If they are smooth on the outside, they're worn.

    The clutch basket can be “filed†if necessary (though use wet/dry paper instead) and clean off all the swarf. Yours doesn’t look too bad and after just 24K it shouldn’t be worn out. You always get some marks where the plates rub on the basket.
  14. Thanks for your help GPZ1135,

    I have not adjusted the clutch push rod so will definitely be doing that on the weekend as well as clean up the basket as well.

    I am going to do an oil change at the same time......

    Something i did notice is that it doesnt do it anywhere as bad when it is cold.
  15. Thats not a good sign.
    Cold oil is thicker and should be dragging more.
    Once around the block is usually enough to thin oil out enough to change smoothly. Smooth when cold is not what I was expecting.

    Good luck.
  16. And you are so right there. If the plates are not badly worn on the tabs which engage with the outer basket or the inner hub, then just replace those two items and carefully clean (with a file) the engagement surfaces of the clutch plates.

    You could also clean the hub and basket where wear marks are showing. They will be preventing the plates from freeing properly, even though the outer clutch plate is fully released. No amount of adjustment or oil changes will compensate for what the file can do.

    I think I've read that somewhere before...

    All the best ;-)

    Trevor G

    PS Try this:

    In gear with the clutch in

    1) Try pulling back

    2) Without releasing the clutch try pushing forward.

    If it frees after changing direction it will be wear (grooves) in the basket and hub.

    You could try pushing forward first, and then pulling back, too. Either way. as the hub and basket separate from the plates as you change direction, there is a strong possibility that the movement will allow the plates to separate correctly.

    3) Try looking throught the oil fill hole for the outside edge of the clutch assembly - you should see the outer plate separate (move) by 3 mm or so as you pull the lever.

    It is also possible that the throwout mechanism or worm gear is worn or damaged and not forcing the outer plate to move enough.

    However, the file job costs you nothing but a few hours of work. DO IT!


    Trevor G