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An important part of my 27 yo has stripped - stripped sump plug

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by still_riding, Nov 28, 2011.

  1. What to do...?

    27 year old bike that is my commuter, nearly done 100K, it can't die before then.

    I've known that my sump plug had been helicoiled (not by me) and now it has finally come out.

    I believe things can't be re-helicoiled, i'm looking at getting a timesert put in, but need suggestions for who can do this in south east melbourne, and how much you think the re-dressing will cost? :wink:

    Thanks in advance
  2. Re: An important part of my 27 yo has stripped

    hmm personally I'd be drilling it out one size larger, retapping it and getting a new larger sump plug. but I don't know how well that would work out on a sump.
  3. Re: An important part of my 27 yo has stripped

    Did the Heli-coil fall out or was it stripped out?
    If you stripped a Heli-coil, you're waaaay over tightening the plug!!!
    If the thread's ok, then just put another coil in.
    Or, drop the sump (if possible), get it TIG'ed up & re-tapped!
  4. Re: An important part of my 27 yo has stripped

    easily done! (y)
  5. Re: An important part of my 27 yo has stripped

    I really have to get around to learning how to weld one of these days. The possibilities you've got if you can weld are endless.
    I don't suppose you've got the skill?
  6. Re: An important part of my 27 yo has stripped

    The original helicoil fell out, it was put in badly.

    Regarding drilling it out and then re-tapping, the sump plug I've got is 14mm.
    How much bigger do sump plugs come?

    No I don't weld, but I am really good at silver soldering, plus the sump can't come out without the engine coming out
  7. Re: An important part of my 27 yo has stripped

    My old WR400 stripped the thread and the cost/effort to remove the motor was BS, so I devised my own fix for it that worked a treat.

    I tapped iirc a 1/4" BSP thread into the remaining thread in the case. I then inserted a Speedflow fitting into this new thread, this fitting had a hex head insert. So instead of constantly undoing and doing up a sump plug against the soft magnesium case, it was a matter of only removing the insert.

    All up including buying the tap it was about a $40 fix all the other options started at well over $100 and involved removing the motor.


    • Like Like x 1
  8. Re: An important part of my 27 yo has stripped

    think this might be a worth while mod to do on the DR
  9. Re: An important part of my 27 yo has stripped

    Sure do!! & 4 different welders at work!!
    TIG, MIG, Oxy & arc!!! lol

    Don't try to silver solder. The alloy will be impregnated with oil & you won't get a good bond.
    Could try a sump plug off a late model Commodore!! Around 17 -19 mm!!
    Hey, whatever works!! (y)
  10. Re: An important part of my 27 yo has stripped

    It doesn't have to be a sump plug. It is simply a bolt to fill a hole. If you have enough solid metal around the hole you can go up a size.

    However if you can re-use the original size it will be better in terms of getting crush washers etc.

    If you want to make 100,000 km, a stripped thread shouldn't stop you.
  11. Re: An important part of my 27 yo has stripped

    Must admit, when I first read the OP heading, I was kinda hoping it was someones daughter!!! :demon:
  12. Re: An important part of my 27 yo has stripped

    don't think there's anything left to strip when they get that old these days
  13. Re: An important part of my 27 yo has stripped

    Be careful about just winding in another bolt as it may crack the case, plus it needs to tighten a fair bit if you want to use a standard crush washer.
    The method I used is all tapered threads.
  14. Cazzo, that's probably the most elegant sump plug bodge I've ever seen. Noted for future use, thanks :D.
  15. Yeah well done Cazzo.
    Time certs are good.
    If I was going to drill it still in the frame I would magnetize an allen key to get those nasty little slivers out. Still would pour some old oil through it with the filter off too.
    Check a manual for your bike op. Sump plugs are meant to be as tight as your oil filter. Bout 26nm.
  16. Good luck finding magnetic aluminium :D.

    When I've had to tap into engines without access for proper cleaning, I've usually coated the tap with grease and backed it out every so often to clear off the shavings and reload with fresh grease. It's worked for me so far.

    Given full flow oil filtration I wouldn't bother to flush anything but might change the filter after an hour or so's running. On an engine with only a mesh screen and/or a centrifugal strainer (lots of older design Hondas for example, including the Postie family and, I suspect, every Chonda variant) I'd be a bit more circumspect. I'd probably put a litre or two of kero in then drain it and repeat a couple of times, not running the engine. After all, any debris from the tapping operation should be confined to the area immediately around the sump plug and should rinse out fairly easily.
  17. Thanks all for the words of wisdom. Cazzo a very neat job indeed.
    I found that my sump plate could come off with the engine in place, so took it around to all my engine shops.

    Couldn't find someone to put in a timesert, but finished up with what I believe is a recoil.
    Absolutely beautiful job, I'm realising now that I should have taken a photo to show you, but it's not pretty blue.
    inside thread is different to outside thread, so it locks into the housing and the drain plug can be undone and done up as often as I like.\

    So I have now learnt all about:
    Full Torque

    All so much better than helicoils!

    And streetmaster it is your lucky day, I am someone's daughter (still_riding's)