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Aluminium Bolts ok for non-stress parts?

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by Seedy, Sep 6, 2011.

  1. I was going to grab a set of bolts from pro-bolt, there are a couple missing from my new bike and I thought it would be handy to have a bunch of them. Is there any reason I should avoid getting the cheaper aluminium set over the stainless steel?

    The set I am looking at is http://www.probolt-australia.com/Products/Z750_07_08_Full_Monty_Bolt_Kit

  2. If they're in non stress application like they say, it shouldn't be a problem... you will need to adjust your torque settings lower to account for the different material.

    You can also get galvanic corrosion between aluminium & steel, you may need something like Loctite C5-A & a threadlocker if you ever want to get them out again.
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  3. I got a bike second hand once that had a lot of aluminium bolts on it. From a maintenance perspective it was a biatch. Who gets out torque wrench to put a fairing back on? Even engine side covers don't need a torque wrench.

    I converted to all SS in the end because I had so many temporary bolts.

    never again will I much around with a bike with aluminium bolts.
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  4. Ally has vastly different friction and thermal expansion characteristics as well. Would I do it? In a word no.
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  5. Call me weird, but I torque my engine side covers... :)

    With the engine covers, wouldn't it generally be aluminium going into aluminium? That shouldn't be a problem expansion wise, right?

    Anyway, whichever way you go, use the Loctite & thread locker anytime steel & aluminium are together.
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  6. If the book values are SS to ally the torque required with ally to ally maybe significantly different though as the compressive force generated by said torque will be different and will change differently with temperature. Not important mostly but should be considered.
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  7. Ally to ally threads can gall and weld themselves together very effectively, even when only hand tight.

    Personally, I'd avoid ally bolts for a road bike. Maybe worth it for a racer where you're trying to shed every last microgram, but, even then, you'd be better off having a dump before practice :D.
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  8. Thanks heaps for all the posts guys, exactly the sort of advice I needed. Will save up the bucks and go SS.

    Will have a dump too Pat :)
  9. Ah yes, I forgot about galling.

    I'm using a product called Tefgel at the moment, it's a marine product that stop galling & galvanic corrosion, my stainless steel brake rotor bolts were an absolute biatch to get out last time, never again!