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Alternator test.. ZZR600

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by rodgonzbea, Feb 9, 2012.

  1. Hi.. Just a quick question.. lads and ladettes.. Having charging issues on my kawasaki zzr600D (92). I replaced th R/R from a wrecker as the last one was burned (had it tested and it was history), but the battery still was not charging, output of 12.3 V @ 4-5000 revs.
    So i opened it up, and the alternator had a few blackened, burned windings.
    Replaced it with another one originally destined for a Yamaha SRX250, that fits, similar plug, etc., also from a wrecker for my other bike...
    Turned it on, no headlight.](*,)
    checked voltage, battery fully charged, and got 12.7, but no variations.
    Disconnected the alternator, no voltage change.
    There is NO voltage reading across the terminlas of the headlight socket (plug).
    I did swap bulbs just in case, tried four, for the same reason.
    All the other lights, horn and indicators work...
    After leaving running for a few mins, voltage started dropping, slightly.
    Disconnected battery, bike STOPS.

    Now, do bikes run similarly to cars, as in if I disconnect a cars battery while its running if the engine shouldn't stop, as the bike produces its own power???
  2. The new one may have a similar plug but obviously NOT the same connections.
    generally the alternator is 3 phase, the SRX 250 is likely a single phase winding.
    Some bikes run direct AC from the alternator for the headlight (my old Suzi 1000 G did) and then rectified 12vDC for the rest of the stuff.
    I'd get someone with electrical knowledge to check the alternators before going any further.
  3. Thank you...Duh!! I didn't think of the single phase/three phase difference.. what an idiot..
    Thank you very much... ill just look for the right part and stop p....ng around trying to adapt stuff... forgot the rule..Dont fix..swap!!
    Thanx again ducfreak!!!
  4. Also note that its likely the R/R is cooked again... If your old alternator had a short to ground it may have killed the new R/R when you tried it. If this didn't kill it hooking up the wrong type of alternator more than likely would have. It's always best to test the stator/alternator first before hooking up a new rectifier to avoid killing it.

    Easy tests you can do on the alternator: (assuming its supposed to be three phase as mentioned above) test the AC output across the phases. To do this grab a multimeter set to AC and find the three wires that come out of the alternator and go to the R/R. They should all be the same colour, usually yellow or black. Check the output between any two of these wires until all combinations have been checked. There will be a manufacturer spec but it would typically by anywhere from 15 at idle to 60 at high rpm). If you are in spec your alternator is producing charge fine. The other thing to check is if it has a short to ground. To do this, on the same three yellow or black wires set your multimeter to continuity tester and check that you don't have continuiry between any of the wires and ground (you can put your negative probe on anything ground, frame, motor, battery, as long as it's bare metal.)

    After doing these tests you can be confident the stator or alternator is fine and it's safe to plug into a new r/r. The only time you can't test in this manner is if the alternator is internally rectified but as you said you replaced your r/r I'm assuming yours has a separate r/r. You may need to go over the rest of your bike if you plugged a single phase alternator into a three phase circuit too. I'm not familiar with the actual alternator you used but many have one winding for charging which goes to the R/R and another for lighting which isn't rectified (A/C lighting). If you've plugged AC into something it shouldn't have it may be cooked also).

    Hope this helps