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Aftermarket Clutch Lever: FAIL

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by Lionz, Jun 10, 2015.

  1. Hi All.
    Just thought i'd post up a pic of my knackered clutch lever. It's aftermarket, didn't realise that when i got the bike - it looks standard / genuine at first glance. However, now it's off you can see the underside is clean or unmarked by manufacturer. It should have 'NISSIN' or similar engraved/emblazoned across it.

    My clutch began getting 'graunchy', I thought "I must fix that this weekend". Thinking i'd just take the lever off, hold the cable up, create a funnel and let some 3 in 1 penetrate and lube. It was still working.

    So i begin to strip the lever.................. and it falls into my hand:

    Clutch Lever.JPG

    That is purely metal fatigue from an inferior product. Now the lever is off you can feel the weight of it - or lack of. The bike's 2011 so the lever cant be that old. Plus i rarely use the clutch.

    This didn't cause me too much of a problem, have to admit I wasn't overly concerned at the time being a clutch lever - and i knew a bit of maintenance was coming.

    BUT, what if it had been my front brake? Now that IS a worry.
    • Informative Informative x 2
  2. Whoa. that's quite a worry...and given where it has fractured unlikely a routine visual inspection would have picked that up
    As you say bloody lucky not the brake...
    Apart from removing the lever, there wouldn't have been any other way to have picked this up would there??
  3. That is a worry, I have aftermarkets on mine. I think I will disassemble and have a look.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. My hobby is metal and I know about how little it takes to snap some of these alloys. That's one of the reasons I haven't put shorty aftermarket levers on.

    Good to hear you weren't doing anything fancy on the bike at the time LionzLionz . 'Graunchy' is an interesting word!
    • Like Like x 2
  5. GoldenberriGoldenberri 'graunchy' summed it up beautifully ;)

    OldmaidOldmaid No, the clutch lever bracket covers all of that. So the nipple on the clutch cable held the lever in place, and where it had sheared or cracked was still using the spigot as a pivot point. So still working and basically visually okay at first glance. I didn't even notice until it literally fell into my hand.

    cjvfrcjvfr I think if you're on a reputable make you'd be okay Chris. I've got pazzo's on my Repsol and they're fine obviously - i just nicked the genuine Honda clutch lever from that (the original) for the 600.
    • Informative Informative x 1
  6. "Graunchy" was a word used back in my aircraft maintenance days
  7. Faaaaark Me, i'm praying that's prior to your maintenance glenn??
    • Agree Agree x 1
    • Funny Funny x 1
  8. I have rizmo shorty levers but still might have a looky see
    • Informative Informative x 1
  9. Usually!!
    • Like Like x 1
    • Funny Funny x 1
  10. I'd be pretty comfortable with decent brands OldmaidOldmaid don't panic.

    Mine were obviously cheap aftermarket that looked the original part and suited someone's purpose at the time. $10 delivered probably.
  11. THIS: "BUT, what if it had been my front brake? Now that IS a worry."

    ANY part can let you down and bring you unstuck in a major way. Riders have a vested interest in some (however minor) guarantee of their own safety by maintaining their bike so as to minimise the possibility that some part will not let you down at a critical time.

    Levers are particularly vulnerable. Even falling off a stand can damage them. Anything that does not work perfectly should be investigated and put right.

    Dodginess is no more tolerable on a motorcycle than on an aircraft.
    • Agree Agree x 2
  12. id rather have my clutch than my front brake. at least you could ride to a store and get a new front brake, as i have done in the past
  13. I'm told the main difference is cast vs. forged: the forged ones are fairly solid (and will bend if they hit the ground), while cheaper cast ones aren't (they'll snake relatively easily).

    'Course it obviously doesn't help if the alloy happens to be one part aluminium two parts undefined...

    Unless your lose it just as you're getting to a tight corner on a mountainside.

    Also, clutchless shifting and some care and trickery can get you places in a pinch.
  14. #15 oldcorollas, Jun 10, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2015
    it looks pressure die cast, likely too high silicon and other crap.
    would suggest it's taken a bump to cause initial crack, rather than pure fatigue :)
    can do a failure analysis (and composition check) if you're keen ;)
  15. Would this happen on CNC'ed levers or only cast levers? There is a hell of a lot of people getting around with the coloured CNC'ed billet levers off of ebay!
  16. #17 oldcorollas, Jun 10, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2015
    all depends on the grade of alloy.
    die cast will typically be relatively weak and much more brittle, less likely to bend

    if the starting "billet" (lump) is of low grade, it's more likely to be soft and ductile = bend.
    if higher grade or even a proper grade (6 or 7xxx series with proper heat treatments. cheap to buy plates of them these days..) strength will be much higher, ductility lower, and probably more likely to break the pivot or the lever than bend...

    basically.. cheap cast levers, more likely to snap in a fall.
    CNC 6061 T6 etc levers, more likely to transfer the energy to the pivot or bars. they may still break, but at a higher force.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  17. LionzLionz is the brake lever Honda or aftermarket? Just wondering if both levers were changed for liquorice ones.
  18. I'm not sure the stock one would have Nissan on it Lionz.
    It should have some numbers or markings though.

    What is the chance it is OEM?

    Someone may know this what is the failure rate of OEM v Chazzos?
    I would've thought both would have failures but maybe just the percentage might be different ??

    For what it's worth I've crashed plenty on the track with both known brands, OEM and Chazzos and I've never found a difference in failure rates. Obviously it's all subjective on how the bike lands/hits etc.

    Btw real stories not mate of a mates sisters uncle.......
  19. Some dude did some hardness tests on Hayabusa OEM vs Pazzo vs Chazzo levers.

    TL;DR - the average hardness of the CNC Chazzo was slightly worse than stock, but not catastrophically so, and it was more consistent than the cast stocker. The Pazzo got the best figures but the CNC machining wasn't perfect (but still better than the knockoff). Dude suspects that either the Chazzo wasn't 6061 as advertised or they'd fluffed the heat treatment.