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Advice on current bike

Discussion in 'Bike Reviews, Questions and Suggestions' started by miicah, May 7, 2016.

  1. Hi, I've recently started riding and have been venturing out a bit more on the bike in my profile and I'm starting to notice some deficiencies.

    1) Front suspension likes to tuck under in low speed corners, not too bad at speed - Quoted around $400 to replace springs, fork seals, fork oil etc
    2) Rear suspension is far too soft for a rider of my weight, massive teeth rattling and not confidence inspiring - Again quoted around $400 to replace each side with new spring/shock combo
    3) Using crazy amounts of fuel, I only got 200km out of this tank which comes to around 7.5L/100km which is horrible for a 250. Not sure if I need to take this to a dyno to get looked at or if any old mechanic can fix this.
    4) Storage, bike has none at all, maybe enough to put your wallet in under the rear passenger seat.
    5) The seat is very uncomfortable, not to mention ugly. I'd like to get it redone a bit higher as well.

    The bike has 70k km and due to finances the earliest I could even consider looking at a new bike will probably be around April next year. I can also go for my unrestricted licence in February.

    Is it worth putting this much money into this bike (I only paid $1000 for it)? I honestly like the inline 4 and 250cc is enough for me to get into trouble.
  2. Frankly I'd sell it and buy a'larger capacity which would suit a heavier weight better, may cost you a couple thou but from what you say not worth fixing current ride up. 250cc battles with larger riders unless in powerband, and you can't screech around at 12k revs all day lol. My 2c only...,

    Try a CB400 inline 4
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  3. It's done 70km, the factory suspension will be tired. If that fork oil has never been replaced, and often on noob bikes it isn't, then try that for a possible cheap solution.
    Rear may be out of gas, will need a re-build.

    The high I'm on it mean it will never re-sell for much, so pouring money into it would be a waste. Get a bigger bike, even if cheaper and sell that one to the next sucker.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. Given you say finances don't allow another bike purchase, I'd say you haven't got much choice but learn to work on the bike yourself. You can solve the carby issue, it's undoubtably running too rich. You might be able to find a replacement rear shock at the wreckers. The seat is going to be uncomfortable, you are new to riding. You will getused to it. If not, get an airhawk cushion.

    You can buy a tankbag which you can use on any new bike for storage. Not too expensive. A topbox is better, but you need to buy brackets for that which aren't transerable.
  5. I got my vtr250 knowing I had to do some stuff to it.
    I rebuilt front shocks, fork seals and dust covers and oil I paid $100 (genuine honda) and did it myself.

    I had a similar problem with terrible fuel economy so I replaced the fuel line myself for $15 including an fuel filter and new clamps and solved the issue.

    The seat needed new vinyl which I did myself for $25.

    Needed a new front wheel (got pirelli one) which was $135 and did it myself.

    I replaced the handlebar and grips myself for $50.

    Replaced brake pads myself (because I cleaned them and they are cheap) and got HH for $70 in total.

    Did spark plugs myself for $10

    But I like tinkering, looking at what I paid for the bike and what it cost to do that stuff, I am still ahead in price.
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  6. I just had a look around the interthingy and fuel consumption on you Zeal seems about right. Sorry.
    Suspension stuff should be well within the range of diy unless you do something really stupid or the forks require a special tool to get them apart.
    Motor wise, keep up with the oil changes and keep an eye on the compression.
  7. Well you are right, 6-8L/100km seems about right. Better than my car still! Also the suspension I've decided I'll be doing myself, does anyone know about the eBay specials for around $100? Come from a store called japbikespares. I figure it has to be better than what's on there at the moment.
  8. I had a zeal myself and got a super clean one for $2k. As you say they are pretty poor with the suspension. The motor is a ripper though and I do miss reving the guts out of it.

    Problem is you will find bugger all support for it as it wasn't a very popular grey import compared to your CBR250rr's and hornets. Being in QLD my advice is suck it up for the year on your RE's, get your opens and then trade it on a full license bike. The money you spend on it now you won't get back and you can put that cash to your upgraded steed.
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  9. Yes I would put in the money to make this bike work for you. With the forks and rear shocks $800 and your $1000 to buy that bike you in for $1800, plus an airhark for the seat and a tank bag. I look at it this way. If I buy a new bike it will loose a lot of money. That same money is lost with a old bike on parts.
    This year my 1984 Goldwing will need close to $3,000 and what is the valve of a 1984 Goldwing with 200,000 kms. Maybe $3,000. I am replacing wear items.
    Exhaust Headers, Front and Rear disk rotors, New brake pads Head Stem Bearings, Rebuild Front Forks, New Progressive Shocks, New Cam Belts, New cam belts idlers, New front Tire, New Saddle. Then it will be ready for another 100,000 kms
  10. Its probably not worth the money unless you keep it long term. Good little commuter! Or a good little track bike!
  11. Sounds like you bought the wrong bike.
  12. And what bike do you have?

    I disagree somewhat. @milicah will learn plenty from this bike, he'll be a better rider/mechanic for it, and will appreciate and the next bike all the more. Plus he'll have more money for the next one, than say if he bought a brand new MT-0trip69
  13. So I adjusted the pre-load on the rear down one spot and it's less teeth shattering now, so that's good. I had a chat with my old hand bike mate at work and he gave me some tips on winding the throttle on, so I'll keep an eye on fuel consumption. I've also been a bit more liberal with gear changes, spending less time at 10k in 2nd and more around 4th-5th.

    I'll be changing the fork oil this weekend to 15W (factory spec is 10W) so hopefully that will help. I'm also considering making my own custom seat, but we'll see. Wreckers want like $80 for a dodgy seat :/
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  14. Don't forget to play around with tyre pressures and make notes.
  15. Yep, sitting on 10k rpm might have something to do with your fuel economy!
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