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Adjusting chain slack without alignment markers

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by thecptn, Aug 10, 2008.

  1. I have a bit of a problem, the PO had the frame powdercoated and did not protect the small alignment notches on the swing arm, now I have no idea, ive tried using a ruller on the bolt spacer, even than, the wheel is still slightly out of ballance...errp help.

  2. Hmmmm .. Start scraping the paint off any other way requires a lot of work ..I think it can be done buy removing the wheel, measure from the back making new marks on both sides...still more accurate to start scraping..
  3. Try sighting down the chain, quarter turn on the adjusters max, until you get the chain to the right tension & straight. If you chain is straight, your wheel should be too.
  4. I actually have the chain at the right slack, how ever, the wheel is out of whack, when I spin it, the wheel has a very slight wobble to it, once every 2 spins, and since I am runing over size rears, the space between the swingarm is very tight.
  5. I've found the markers on my bike to be unreliable, so I use a ruler off the back of the swingarm to the spacers.
    It might be worth the effort to remark your swingarm and not damage the schmick paintwork of the PO.
  6. I would not trust the original marks anyway.
    Centreing the wheel will not stop it wobbling. If its wobbling its bent or the bearings are buggered.
    Why have you bothered to fit 'oversize rears' when you don't even know how to adjust the wheel correctly?
  7. Find someone in your area, who can teach you the ancient, and almost forgotten, art of Stringlining your wheels.
    I reckon Motoplast will know. Try him.
  8. make your own marks or get out the string.
  9. Spoked wheels?? Maybe it's out of true.. Alignment problems shouldn't cause the wheel to wobble, but an out of true spoked wheel will.

  10. I think you have a buckle or the tire is out of round.Check to see if the rim is moving not just the edge of the tire..
  11. Easiest way is to make a gauge out of a piece of 3mm wire about 600mm long or their abouts and a cable tie. Bend a 90 degree on one end of the wire & sharpen to a point. Tighten the cable tie on the long straight section of wire and cut the tail on a sharp angle -about 5mm long. Then hold the bent end on the centre of the swingarm pivot bolt and slide the cable tie down the wire until the pointer is in the centre of the axle. Walk to the other side of the bike & adjust until the axle lines up with the cable tie pointer.
    Perfect alignment. Way quicker & easier than stringlining :cool: :cool:
  12. I'm glad i learned that method years ago. it is lost on todays youth, much like an analogue clock.
  13. You learn something every day. I was going to suggest the string method, been using it for 40 years but NoShowAllGo's method makes sense. I'll try it this week end.
    I have never trusted the factory marks.
  14. Back off the chain adjuster bolts so that the wheel is free to push as far forward in the swing arm as it will go.

    Tighten the adjuster bolts to take up any free play. Then adjust the chain as normal, counting how many "flats" of the adjuster bolts you turn (1/6 turns).

    It will take a while the first time, but once it's done, any further adjustment of the chain will be quicker.
  15. Noshow, your method is how HD workshop manuals say to do it.
  16. I think KTM actually sell a tool as well :wink: :wink:
  17. Harley tell you to make it yourself.