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A few quick pics of my bike.. [project]

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' started by Manny, Jul 3, 2005.

  1. In the beginning... there was lots of rust, and grit.. and so on and so forth..




    I dont have very many pictures of what it looked like when I bought it, those there are after I'd ripped the engine etc out. Quite an example of what a few years of neglect can do.



    Now these are some more recent shots.. what do you think of the colour? It's not nearly done, but it's an improvement.

    And here is the dreaded engine -


    Ill put you together, if it's the last thing I do. :p

    TO DO LIST =
    Re-assemble engine :LOL:
    Get clip-ons to replace bent handlebars.
    Get Plastex to mend front fairing.
    Paint front and lower fairing
    Strip rims (or have them stripped)
    Spray rims black
    Replace seat cover (and get rid of that strap..)
    Get new tyres
    Buy Corona safety singlet
  2. At first she was looking a little worse for wear, almost as if someone had gotten a little wild with the battery acid.
    Now, you've done well. She is definitely taking shape. Colour is great. Keep up the good work. You'll be really proud when its complete. :D
  3. Yeah it's looking great. The new coat of paint look a million dollars. How much did the bike cost you??? How much have you spent on it so far??
  4. Hey manny, it looks GREAT, you are a real artist
    Can't wait to see it on the roads
  5. Manny, from those of us who subscribe to the "Cheque-book maintenance" club, we dips our collective lids!
  6. Excellent work Manny :applause: :applause:

    Apart from the extra pride of having done it yourself, you would have learnt so much more about the bike, and bikes in general.

    When you get the beast on the road, will you rebuild a bigger one for the step up??

  7. the colour looks nice as!
  8. Wow
    Thanks a lot for your positive feedback and support : ) really means a lot to me, thanks heaps.

    The bike cost $650 (the asking price was $950) - It started up, but it didn't go above 2nd gear. I don't know how much I've spent on it so far... definately a few hundred dollars on things like paint, sand paper, workshop manuals, brake gaskets and dremel attachments (those things are WAY overpriced). Whatever the price it's been worth it - I know how an engine works now (to a degree..) and im sure if i did it again I could do it for much less.
    Not sure! I think I might keep this one for a while, until I can afford a new one. If I can't, then why not =P.
    I've been thinking that maybe next I should rebuild another gpx, or another small bike - just to get one of my friends into bikes.

    now for a slight update and question or two :

    I've managed to put the bottom end back together (just a dry run btw). Now I'm testing out the gearbox -

    When I pulled the engine appart I couldn't see anything wrong with any of the dogs, or any of the teeth on the gears - they were all there and happy (I presume they have feelings). The only thing I did find, was a hell of a lot of crap inside the engine. The sump was full of thick, black, sludge and metal fillings, so I think that might have caused the gear problem.

    Now that it's a bit cleaner and back the way it should be, I have rigged the following system to test the gears, and I need you to tell me if im messing it up or doing something wrong.

    In the second picture where my hand is, that's the alternator "rotor". It's attached to the crankshaft, which is in turn attached to the gear box (If you look at the engine pic in the first post u will see how it all pieces together internally) so when I spin it, all the gears spin with it.

    There is also a clamp, which I have clamped onto the shifter rod. When I push it upwards, it downshifts, when I push it down, it upshifts (I am pretty sure at least :p ..). That rod goes all the way through the engine, and controls the shifter arms on the other side - you can see those in the third picture, behind the clutch.

    Above the clamp in the first two pictures is where the output shaft protrudes from the case. That is where the bike chain is normally attached to the rear wheel.

    Now what I'm doing is spinning the the alternator cover (sorry, "ROTOR") forward with my left hand, to move all the internals around. With my right thumb I'm touching the output shaft to see what gear it's in, as I lift the clamp up and down to change gears.

    So far I have found every gear, but NOT every time. I can find first gear everytime, as well as neutral, but when I try to shift up to second it only lets me push the lever down half-way most of the time - which leaves me stranded in neutral. When I am able to get the leaver all the way down, it shifts into 2nd gear and thereafter it's prettymuch smooth sailing all the way up to 6th (which is great, because initially 2 to 3rd was the problem).
    Now is it ok that I'm having a hard time finding second? Would that no longer be a problem if the engine is running, or have I done something wrong?
    Thinking about it now, it might boil down to the fact that I completely ignored the markings on the gears when I put the two gear shafts back together. I couldn't find anything in the book on them, so I just threw them in together. Does it matter how these are put back in relation to one another?



  9. ok forget what I said about smooth sailing to 6th. Now she's just being moody.
  10. and now she's being alright again
  11. love the computer in the background with netrider on the screen... nice touch :)
  12. Looking good :D Just one tip (i've rebuilt a bike as well) dont worry about the left over parts . Just toss them in the bin . If they are left over then they weren't important to start with :shock: .
  13. There's no oil in the box, so it could be a bit "iffy" going thru the big neutral from 1st to 2nd. It also could be incorrect end play on the shafts/gears. Only the manual will tell you if that's right. I don't think the gearbox gears would be "timed" together with markings as such, but again, the manual is the reference there.

    Be nice to know where the metal came from in the first place tho, the sludge is probably overcooked, not changed often oil.

    These links may help with manuals if you don't have them.... (I didn't test them)

    Don't buy genuine Dremel bits, the Black & Decker bits are just as good, and a lot cheaper I've found.

    Love the workshop.. just the right amount of clutter :D

  14. I think I know where the metal might have come from. they were just small alumium bits, probably from the crank case just under the pistons.. it looks like somehow the pistons have come down and eaten into the case.. you'll see what I mean, I'll post a pic when I get home.

    Yeh what I'm doing now is buying a whole kit for 20 bucks - Dick Smith stocks them, they have 40ish random tools in there, inc 4 wire brushes. I used to pay 10 bucks for 1 wire brush.

    haha I love the work shop too. I've put the computer in there so I can listen to music while I work. The clutter is very modern art =P

    Great work finding those online manuals. I have them now, but I couldn't find them online when I was looking! They should be put up somewhere on the site to make them easier to find *Adds to Bookmarks*

    EDIT = Ok I'm home, here are the pics I promised of where I believe the metal shavings might have come from. Wow looking at those pics, I really think I should clean the engine again. Those hairs belong to my dog sam, not to the engine.


  15. I have the same marks machined into the 250 blocks I have. (I have a spare engine stripped down)

    the bits of metal that caused me to strip my motor down came from the output shaft bearing.
  16. Great stuff Manny! I'd Love to keep hearing about how it progresses.
  17. yeah, I think they're purposely machined, to ensure clearance. Notice how there is fine parallel marks running across the the "cleaner" area? Piston skuff marks would go 90 degrees to that (up 'n down) and would be no-where as neat :?

    If it's definately aluminium bits, (and taking note of your earlier sludgey oil comments) then it may well be bits from and overheated piston, or more likely a pummelled main/big end or other bearing (as tack says, output shaft bearing... therefore stuffed gear tolerances.. therefore problems getting neutral etc.. sound familiar :wink: ). The bearing material is usually a white soft metal.

    Looks like your having fun! keep the progress reports coming.

  18. What a project, I won't ask if the financial side of things is all worth the effort.
    Take my hat of to you for taking on such a big task, but I am sure at the end it will be all worth it. :eek:
  19. Ahh alright.. yeh I guess it makes more sense that they are machined that way, otherwise the pistons would be mangled to shit. They just look out of place.. silly me.

    Here are some pics of the rear tyre. I couldn't ply it off the rim, because for some reason I no longer possess the strength of 500,000 men. Instead I did the next best thing. I opted for the "Dremil blade + hacksaw" method. Needless to say I am not going to ever take a tyre off myself again because that is ridiculously hard.
    Never again I say - the front one can be taken off at the shop.

    Here are some pics of the tyre I so eagerly cut away at.



    Have fun analysing the previous owners riding style :p


    Those pics are HUGE.. Sorry about that
    Here are some smaller versions (I'll leave the large versions linked for micro-analysis)



    Oh and if you're interested - here is a picture of some crabs floating around on foam. Top stuff.

    http://www.aqualandpetsplus.com/Bug, C18.jpg
  20. how did the bike turn out???