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99-02 SV650s 'medium' service.

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by Shiner, May 25, 2013.

  1. Hey peeps. I don't think I can post pics due to my post level but I thought I would write up a quick how-to for basic servicing on the 99-02 SV650s (applicable to the naked too pretty much).

    instead of paying $450 for what I would like done, I paid $300, which included the new tools (since I moved interstate and have none) plus a case of beer.

    Items purchased;

    - Engine oil and filter (Motul 5100 and generic filter for me)
    - Engine coolant (Motul Inugel expert 1L x 2) it mixes with all types of coolant, and I wanted that even though I was flushing the system
    - Still/deionized water (2-4 litres its cheap)
    - Spark plugs (generic NGK CR8E plugs for me)
    - Electrical contact cleaner/dielectric grease/anti-seize plug grease/motul parts cleaner/turps.

    Tools I bought;
    - Generic 1/2" socket set and screwdriver set
    - 16mm sparkplug socket
    - Allen key set
    - oil change bucket
    - Cheapo LED inspection light

    What I will go into will be what I performed today;

    * Removal of fairings and tank
    * removal of radiator, including draining flushing and replacing coolant.
    * replacing spark plugs
    * replacing oil and filters
    * replacing or cleaning/inspecting air filter

    All in the next post :)


  2. #2 Shiner, May 25, 2013
    Last edited: May 25, 2013
    Ok so this is how 'Roxanne' started at the service. Buggered after riding through torrential rain, and running on 1 cylinder due to water being flung into the front plug well.


    FAIRINGS: Ok so first grab your Allen key set *metric* and take off the side fairings. This includes 3 small bolts (2 on top, 1 near the screen) 1 large (on the side near the vent) and 1 screw (in the front vents).

    next remove the small inside plastic panel near the dash that covers the mirror bolts (1 screw or allen bolt) then remove the mirrors (2 allen bolts each). Place the bolts back in the threads or on the respective holes of the components to avoid losing them. After that, you just slide them off and disconnect the indicators.

    Removal of the front fairings and screen is not needed.

    TANK and SEAT: 2 bolts either side of the seat allow it to be removed, the rear seat is removed as usual with the key release. After removing the the riders seat, there is 2 bolts near the steering head that hold the front of the tank to the frame. Undo these and if it is still present, there should be a bent tent peg thingy in under your pillion seat, this is to be placed in the steering stem after lifting up the tank, so it can be hinged in the air giving access to the engine. This gives JUST enough access to the rear plug without having to completely remove your tank and disconnect fuel hoses.

    Now it will look like this

  3. OK! now the next step is to drain and remove the radiator. (you can just bend it back, but I could not remove the horn bolt as it was seized so this was not possible).

    First, locate and remove the 10mm hex bolt on the waterpump. This is just below the pipe on the waterpump housing if you follow the coolant hose from the radiator to the engine on the RHS of the bike


    Now you want to remove the radiator cap, and let the radiator drain out, shifting the bike upright or left and right to shift the leftover water.

    Right on the neck of the radiator filler hole is a small hose that leads to the coolant overflow. Disconnect that, and keep it near vertical to allow it to drain. There is a soft rubber cap on the RHS of the airbox near the frame that opens the overflow bottle.

    Next I take about 500ml of the water I bought and flush that bottle, then I replace the coolant plug in the water pump and fill the radiator to the top. Turn the bike over for 1-2 seconds then drain it all out. I let it sit for about 5 minutes after that and had another beer (well it was a saturday).

    REMOVAL OF THE RADIATOR is quite easy, there is 2 bolts on the RHS top and bottom, and 1 bolt on the LHS at the top. after you remove these and disconnect the radiator hoses at the radiator itself, it just slides to the side where it can be held to the frame with a ziptie or cord, be sure not to let anything damage the fins.

    Now you will have access to the front cylinder with ease!

    P.S I know I really need a new radiator with a radguard. Will be one of my next purchases.

  4. Ok, Now what I did was remove the front and rear ignition leads.

    On the front cylinder, you get a lot of crud flying at the spark plug from the front wheel if you do not have a fender extender. What you want to do is locate the front cylinder drain hole (picture care of google) and blow compressed air into it after cleaning out the hole with a pipe cleaner. I did not have a compressor so I used Motul parts cleaner very generously which spat gunk out all over the side of my engine and was cleaned up.


    Once that has settled, remove your front plug. Prep your new CR8E plug with some anti-seize ($0.99 a satchel) on the threads, avoiding the electrode and some dielectric grease on the insulating section. reinstall it finger tight then turn 1/8 to 1/4 using the socket set if you do not have a torque wrench.

    Clean out the inside of the ignition lead with some electrical contact cleaner (make sure it is rubber and plastic safe) and then apply some dielectric grease around the base and inside of it. Seat it on the plug and whala!

    As a testament to how much punishment these front plugs take, this is a picture of my front plug, it had done 8000km, but was in there for 9 months from the service records.

    Next to it is the new NGK CR8E plug, identical to the worn one.


    Now do the same to your rear cylinder.

    As you can see there isn't much room, but trust me it is quite easy to do with cheap tools.

  5. Unfortunately no more pictures.

    For your airfilter. It is simply 4 screws around the intake hole and it slips out with the new one slipping in.

    With the oil, I changed it after I did my coolant as I like to warm my bike up to operating temps to check all the hoses are seated correctly. This aids in shifting gunk IMHO when you dump your used oil.

    Next undo the oil filler cap and place back on the threads but do not tighten. Take a socket (14mm I think) and undo the drain plug under the engine. Invest in a filter removal tool if yours are hard to remove (mine was a shocker! took 10 minutes to shift it) the filter is located on the front of the engine near the exhaust.

    Replace the filter applying some oil to the gaskets. replace your drain plug and top up the oil roughly to the recommended amount (2.4 - 2.6L) until it is at the high point of the glass window when the bike is upright. Tighten the filler cap.

    Now start the engine up and let it run for a few seconds allowing the engine to fill up the oil filter. Turn it back off, and let it sit for a few minutes then top the oil back up until the glass window is at the correct level (it should have dropped a bit).

    FANTASTIC! its all pretty much done! check, lube and adjust your cables then put all your plastics back on, its the exact reverse of removing them.

    After this, it is important to give your bike a small run, at least reaching operating temperature and revving up as you normally would. Bring it back into the garage, let it sit for a few minutes and then re-check the fluid levels, bolt tightness, and radiator hose connections.
  6. What is the result?

    My bike went from a bit sketchy but smooth (when it wasn't running on 1 cylinder from the rain) to being crackingly fantastic. It starts up so much quicker and doesn't even need much choke. The bike revs up instantly compared to before when it would stumble if you opened the throttle too quick.

    It is still a lumpy and slightly rattly engine but it feels and pulls so much better, and after smelling the horrid burnt peanut smell of the last coolant, I feel much safer.

    also I smeared some additional dielectric grease around the section of the ignition lead that seals to the top outside of the cylinderhead to apparently repel water... the grease I expect will do more than the rubber ever did. But I am still in dire need of a fender extender.

    GET CRACKIN' KIDS! and love your bike. Don't pay someone else to do it when you can take your time and enjoy giving a gift to your ride.