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95 CBR600f Headlight issues (SOLVED)

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by V8cressida, Oct 6, 2008.

  1. My little commuter has decided that it is not going to let me see at night!

    Symptoms - No headlight - Low or High beam. The "Pass" button does bring on high beam when pressed in.

    Tail light works fine.

    Tested headlight socket with voltmeter. With ignition on, there is no voltage across each of the terminals and ground.

    When testing (as a double check of teqnique) with pass button pressed in 1 terminal gives 12volts.

    Any suggestions? I am wondering if it could be a relay prob?


  2. A quick question to get this straight. Do you mean when you press the pass button with the bulb removed you get 12v to the frame of the bike on one of the headlight terminals?

    Not sure if the headlights are relay switched they aren't on many bikes. If so you should be able to find the relay and see if the coil voltage is 12v when the headlight switch is on. If that is there and there is 12v on one side of the relay contacts and not the other then it is probably relay.

    Do you have a wiring diagram, often a copy in the owners manual?
  3. cjvfr ... most (if not all) headlights run relays. If you care to open up the junction-box (fuse box) on most bikes you will find relays inside. It is not necessarily this that would be causing the problem.

    You may well find that your handlebar switch is corroded, which is common if the bike is stored outdoors. There are two or three screws on the underneath of the switch-box to remove it. Use a can of contact cleaner (available at most electronics stores) and spray liberally all through the internals of the switch.

    If that doesn't work, you can open the switch-box up completely (watch out for tiny ball bearings if you don't know what you are doing!) and clean it thoroughly, or you can open up the junction-box and re-solder a new relay in place.
    I hold no responsibilty for any actions taken in regards to this comment
  4. Yes that is correct. Yes I have a worshop manual. There is nothing about headlight trouble shooting in it. Not sure if it is relay operated. I would have thought though if it was the handle bar light switch it may have played up a bit before stopping altogether. I will have to check that out as well.

  5. Problem mostly solved. After pulling the entire fairing/headlight assembly off the bike to trouble shoot, this is the result.

    Starting from the Headlight Socket I checked for continuity of each wire back to the next socket in the harness. All was good until I got back to the Light/turn/pass/horn assembly where the white and blue wires enter the light switch and come back out as a blue/white main feed wire.

    I decided to apply power to this wire to confirm that forward of this point was operational. Using a patch lead with an inline 10amp fuse (incase of oopsies) I Sent 12+volts to the sucka. Sure enough the headlight worked.

    I kept on checking the blue/white wire for continuity through the next couple of plugz in the harness. Looking at the circuit drawing there wasn't much more "Circuit" to check.


    Finally the end of the road for Mr Blue/white wire is oddly enough inside the Run-Stop/starter/throttle assembly. While this seems not to be completely pull apartable until I release the throttle cable, I could see with a torch that there was a mini bus-bar arrangement in there connecting power to the positive side of the starter switch and also to Mr blue/white.

    Unfortunately it seems that Mr blue/white and this bus bar had a falling out because the blue white wire was swinging in the breeze. Looks like a simple Re solder job but unfortunately I think I have to pull the fuel tank off to release tension on the throttle cables so that I can gain better access.

    So by the time I pull everything apart lil honda won't look much like a bike at all, All because of 1 bloody wire!
  6. Glad to hear you are solved V8.

    Thanks G2, I wasn't aware that relays were the norm, It makes sense when you think about it, 60watts plus is about 5 amps plus, too much to be reliably switched by the handlebar switch. Sorry for the mislead. :)