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600cc vs 1000cc running costs

Discussion in 'Bike Reviews, Questions and Suggestions' started by alexjkoro, Mar 8, 2011.

  1. hey guys,

    looking to upgrade the 250cc. looking to spend up to 10-12k. was a little nervous about going straight for the 1000 but after riding my mates gsxr750 didnt think itd be much of a big deal. my biggest concern is running costs. bikes i have been considering are 2008-09 600 and 1000 ninja, 07-08 triumph 675 and 07-09 yamaha r1 and r6. i ride around 400ks per week as i ride to work on a nice day, rainy days i take the car. if anyone has any feedback on service and parts costs on these bikes it would be awesome

  2. I expect there will be very little difference between most of those...

    You're looking at 20 000 K per year roughly based on your figures, excluding weekends I'd get prices from the main dealer re servicing & consumables for the bikes you like & go from there...

    Of course if running costs are an issue you'd end up with a GS500 or similar. Just saying.
  3. depends how hard you ride it. after 20,000km i would have replaced 12 rear tyres.

    so if you turn the throttle hard it will cost, but if you just noob around on it it wont be that bad.
  4. When I moved from a 600 to my 929 fuel consumption has gone up about 1 litre per 100 kms which is bugger all. The other major difference may be tyres which would partly depend on how you ride.

    Edit: my insurance also went from $300 to $600 per annum.
  5. running costs would be very similar, many 600s have tyres around the same size and cost as bigger bikes

    a normal service will be around $350 - $400 irrespective

    chains and sprockets about the same

    Insurance, as noted by DrewBites, would be a huge factor
  6. Yup. If you're really concerned about running costs, don't buy a sports bike :D. None of them represent cheap transport.
  7. You get less than 2,000k's per tyre!
    What are you doing on your bike?
  8. Commute a bit and do a trackday every month and you'll easily vaporize anything a bit sticky.

    Though it's not strictly sportbike related, on combos I've been known to boil the tread off the back tyre in a couple of hundred miles of showboating. That's old, cast-iron rubbish that's sat on a dealer's shelf for a decade and a half too :twisted:.
  9. i ride my bike. lolz

    no commuting, just hard road riding. with the odd track day thrown in.

    the centre is usually still ok but the sides down to the 'canvas.' this particular rear tyre i have on now would have been classed as unroady after 600km.
  10. When buying a bike also consider trade value when the time comes to upgrade... Most popular resale Triumph 675?? Having ridden quiet a few bikes including the GSX1400 I realized that bigger is not always better
  11. r6 for lengthy commutes = fail...
    r6 for track = massive win!!
  12. To answer your question factor in about 10 to 15% extra $$$ for the thou over the six hundred. Initial and running costs. Tyre wear, chain and sprocket wear and insurance premiums.
    Services are the same. Replacing fairings and stuff is the same.
    For mine the thou makes a better road bike because you don't have to be up it to get anywhere. You can plod along in fifth or top and it will pull well.
    With a 600 you will have to be up and down the gears a bit more. And to be honest where the six shines is "On the limit". Huge corner speeds. They are just a fantastic track bike. They thrive on being punished. The 675 being the best of them.
    In saying this I believe you should work your way up. The 600's will give you confidence. Make you feel the boss. I really do love them on the track.
    The thous will always make you smile, but they will always be the boss. If your totally confident thrashing the guts out of a thou. Then you should be being paid to do it.
  13. Just remember, @400km per week, you'll be up for a major service each year (20.000km). I just had the 20k service done on my Daytona and it came in a tad over $900 due to the valves needing adjusting. The minor service is just over 1/3 of my last major so you'll need to factor at least $1000 for services each year (without the valve adjustment, my major service would have been ~$700).
  14. I don't know how it is in other states but the cost of CTP Greenslip (in NSW) for a 750/1k is a huge jump up from a 600.
  15. Paid my greenslip (NSW) last month for my 750 and greenslip cost was $301.00 (GIO)
  16. Is that for Coffs Harbour?

    I just went through the greenslip calculator with my details (Inner West Sydney) and the cheapest greenslip (12 months) for anything 726-1125cc is $685. 226-725cc is $460.
  17. I'm on a 06 CBR1000RR and commute daily - about 20-30km's round trip depending on the route I chose. Generally I ride it fairly easy because there is no road I can take (without going right out my way) that exceeds 70km/h and 80-90% is in built up areas. Generally I get about 180-190km's before the light comes on.

    A couple of times a week I will take a back road that isn't so built up and give it bit of a run.

    Usually it costs between $10-20 for fuel (BP Ultimate) a week depending on Km's travelled obviously.
  18. When I did it in postcode 2011 there was only a $100 difference. Your age/crash history/experience makes more a difference than postcode.
  19. My 02 CBR600F4i has been recently getting 250-260km before the reserve light (bar) comes on. I've been commuting 2 days a week with the odd long ride on weekend. I'm surprised how much range the bike has with its 18L tank and pretty efficient engine. I would think a litre bike with a 17/18L tanks wouldn't be too different, if ridden gently (which you can, less revs needed than 600 for same speed etc).
  20. Agree! The older you get and the more experience (without crashing) you have the cheaper the insurance gets I've found. If you've been in an accident (had an claims) or had any license suspensions/cancellations it will increase also, in some cases quite dramatically.