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60 > 100W bulb....

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by Janosh, Apr 22, 2007.

  1. I've just fitted one of the fancy high power bulbs on my little bandit and it makes a huge difference! :cool:

    I'm just wondering if it's completely safe - It's got 15A fuses for the headlight as standard, so do i need to up the fuse rating?

    Anything else I should be worried about?

    Thanks,

    Jan


     
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  2. I've heard that the only problem doing this is if used for extended periods, the extra heat might damage the reflector and all the other plastic bits.

    I've done it on mine and I'm mindful to not have the high beam on for too long. Seeing that most of my riding is during the say, this for me shouldn't be a problem
     
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  3. If I remember right Power=Volts x Current, so 15A at 12V should be good for up to 180watts. So should be fine provided nothing else much is running off that same fuse. Bigger issue would be the extra heat from the globe which could potentially melt plastic parts.
    An alternative to running 100w would be to go back to a 60w globe - but a better quality one. Xenon filled Halogens for example are far brighter than a standard globe (some claim 30-50% brighter) yet don't draw any extra current or produce any extra heat (some are even UV shielded to protect plastic lenses/reflectors).
     
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  4. Yea, i thought the fuse would be ok, and i've also heard of the lenses getting "frosted" by using a bulb that too hot/bright...

    It's rated at 90/100 rather than 55/60, so I'm going to run it for a while and I'll report back if I find any problems....
     
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  5. Its a good idea to throw in some relays as well, the extra current can heat and melt the contacts in the switches. I had this problem with a car that I upgraded from 55W to 100W, after a while the lights would go out..... Turned out the switch would warm up and contacts would seperate....
     
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  6. make sure the globe is UV cut, otherwise if you have a plastic headlight lens, you may get a frosted lens, and it will not be cheap to replace new.
     
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  7. spot on JD, and the only other consideration is power consumed by resistance through connections in the wiring harness, and the guage of wire used to power to globe. run it with the light on for half hour or so, then have a feel at the wires feeding the globe. if they are heating up, you might want to undo the update. if all is well, rock on doood!
    (of course taking in to consideration the points that vic raised ;) )
     
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  8. Not sure on the science of it all, but I have recently upgraded to a 90/130 watt globe in the Hornet. I WAS worried about prolonged use of the high beam (low beam is on all the time and hasn't been a problem) but last night from Lake's Entrance to Tathra I didn't really have a choice but to use it full time and the battery was fine, and nothing seems to have been adversely effected (phew).
     
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  9. I too have been running a 90/130 on my bike. It was fine, no melting or other issues, however I went to two extra accesory lights, for a much better spread of light.
    The brighter bulbs will be fine if you only occasionally get out into the sticks, but if you regularly hit country roads at night, you'll need more.

    Regards, Andrew.
     
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  10. Close.

    Most vehicles run at around 13.8v so a single 100w headlight will pull 7.2A @13.8v or around 8.3A @ 12v. don't forget to add the tail light & dash light wattage to the total figure but 18W + 5W is bugger all to worry about.

    As mentioned you need to keep an eye on the connector at the back of the globe & the actual headlight switch as the former owner of a VK Commodore many years ago which I fittted 90/130's to and only just managed to pull the battery before the headlight switch caught fire and only ended up a molten mess of a switch with no damage to the car, it can have some ugly consequences.
     
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  11. :?

    This is a bit more concerning than I originally thought - I was under the impression that lots of people do this switch?!

    Anyway, I'll be checking the wiring on my next ride quite regularly - I don't want to melt anything!
     
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  13. lots of people do it - not many think about it before they do - see car comments with destroyed harness above.
     
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  14. I mentioned elsewhere to use the old headlight wiring to drive relays, then run an new fused line from the battery to the new headlight/relay setup. Your 15amp fuse for the old headlight drops down to <5amps (since you are only running relays) and the new fuse on your new line you match with the wattage you are running (15-20A). No strain on switches and will maybe take you 30 min at best. With mine, I personally run new -ve (grnd) and +ve lines since most heavy duty wire is figure 8 anyway - and you don't have to worry about how the original wiring harness will behave.

    All available from DS or Jaycar electronics for ~$20-30.

    I wouldn't use a 90+/105+ W light with a plastic headlight housing, but most are ceramic or metal anyway.
     
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  15. I know from a half dozen jaycar automotive relays that they are no good for off road use or long term road use. Went through a stack of them on the GS in 10,000km. Switching to a bosch unit provided perfect operation for another 10,000 to the present (and the beatings increased at that point as I got more confident).

    just sayin...
     
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  16. depends what you get...DS has Arlec horn relays rated to 30A going for $5

    I've used 7 across 3 bikes and 50,000k...no problems. Would stick to horn relays or something I guess.
     
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  17. Any plastic headlight may have major issues, especially if it doesnt have decent airflow (eg while riding).

    Certainyl it'd be stupid to leave it there parked on high beam for a long time.

    Any glass headlight should be ok (I remember using 130/90's in mine) but they're getting rarer and rarer.



    Anything over 60/55 is illegal for a normal headlight btw (not that they can tell unless they dissassemble your headlight). As a driving light the ADR rules are a little different.


    You can get +30% and +50% globes which are probably a better idea.


    Just dont get the wanky ones that have the high UV spectrum blue light or I'll smash your headlight if you follow me :p
     
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  18. Just come back from the black spur - about 4 hours riding and nothing seems to have heated up / blown up / glazed or anything else...

    It appears the upgrade is all good :grin:
     
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  19. I would think most bikes already have relays in them?

    Also, while travelling at higher speeds, the headwind should keep the light fittings cool enough.

    I have a Z1000 (05) with two seperate globes. What do you guys recomend for an upgrade?

    Thanks,

    Jens
     
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  20. It's not the globe that has a problem with heat - it's the plastic connector attached to the back of it.
     
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