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2012 CBR1000RR first mod suggestions

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' started by Rented, Jul 24, 2013.

  1. Hi all,

    I've been getting into the track days and the bike is pretty much bog standard except for the rear swat cowl. In terms of improving track performance, what do you think is the best bang-for-buck thing I can do to the bike to improve it on the track, whether it be power, brakes, whatever.
    Of course, the biggest improvement is going to be my technique, standard bike or not!


  2. is it a street bike that you take to the track occasionally or a track bike?
  3. Good point, street.
  4. $70 for a Z-Bomb - plug and play timing calibrator
  5. My understanding was that the Z-Bomb didn't apply to a Aus version, only to the US versions due to country specific restrictions that they have.
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  6. Gearing!! It's amazing how many people chug around with stock gearing.

    Start with -1 on the front +2 on the rear. Will set you back about $100 for the sprockets.

    Get your suspension adjusted by a professional (ideally at the track). If you can stretch to it get it revalved and sprung if needed but if you want to spend some coin put an ohlins shock and cartridges in it.

    Brakes - braided lines, fit some high end track day brake pads and some good brake fluid like Motul RBF600

    Do all the horsepower stuff last, it's expensive and makes the least difference to your times. Good gearing will keep you in the power range of the motor and stock brakes are really good you just need the things I listed to get the most out of them. Tyres and suspension are everything, that's where the gains will be
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  7. Yes, I think gearing is a good idea, the bike is hitting 250, occasionally 255-260 if I push into turn 1 (I am being pretty gentle there purposely so I have extra room, I have to ride it home!) in 4th. Heaps of gearing room.

    I might do brakes first, lately it's been OK but first time out I had bad brake fade (It was STINKING HOT, still wet season and no rain). Are high-end brake pads the same as sintered metal pads?

    Also, one performance upgrade I could do - train seriously. I'm 120KG now and I am ideally 110KG if I train seriously for my regular sport. I am not a small guy and I bought a small superbike haha.
  8. Yeh if your hitting your max speed in 4th then you can obviously go a fair bit of gearing. Have a look at the gearing commander website

    With brakes you've roughly got 4 classes:
    - budget street
    - high end street (sintered HH etc)
    - trackday - designed to take more heat but still usable for street
    - race - amazing initial bite and more heat range but some have a minimum operating temp which makes them dangerous on the road and the initial bite is too much in traffic etc.

    I put race pads on my 600 since its 100% track use, never had them fade and the most noticeable part is the initial bite is so strong, as soon as you engage the pads you feel a big difference where was the stockers would kind of feather in more. I've just fitted a Brembo master cylinder aswell since i was having to pull the brake lever so farking hard, the stopping power is there but I was having to monster it which messes up my flow. I'm testing the MC for the first time tomorrow. 1000s typically have better masters stock but could still help if you find yourself in the same boat.

    The fluid is just as important since it soaks up alot of heat and remember to change it every few track days.
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  9. #9 fennell, Jul 25, 2013
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2013
    Cheap - gearing
    $$$ - light weight wheels, and suspension (either brought or adjusted) to suit
  10. Alright, brakes and gearing it is, brakes first though :) Thanks for the replies, I will update when things happen :D
  11. Good luck, definitely keep us posted. it's addictive isn't it?
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  12. Is there a difference in brake line material? I've seen stainless steel and kevlar high performance brake lines, so how does one choose? Aesthetics?

  13. @UDLO is right on the money...

    gearing first, definitely. next go for suspension. you will notice a world of difference and you don't have to spend shedloads.


    if you're serious about dropping some weight I'd get your bike set-up by a pro suspension guru using the stock suspension first. drop whatever weight you're looking to lose and then look at changing suspension. No sense getting springs to suit your weight now and then dropping 30kg over the next year, especially if you're not racing. Most track days here in SA there's someone there that knows about suspension... I'm sure it's the same interstate.

    braided lines will help with braking but if it's a litre bike it should come with reasonable stock brakes. different story if you're racing but the stock ones should be fine for track days. just keep an eye on pad use.

    Another suggestion is a spare set of wheels with track-oriented rubber on them so you can (if you wanted) have road tyres for road use and track tyres for track use.
  14. It certainly is, I spent 3 hours yesterday fitting a tail tidy, much much better. I also have some spiegler brake lines coming which I am looking forward too.