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2011 CB400 - Daytona 4-level heated grips installation

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' at netrider.net.au started by hongyi77, Feb 25, 2013.

  1. #1 hongyi77, Feb 25, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2013
    I decided to install these heated grips myself, it will be a good learning exercise and would save some money and time not having to bring it to a workshop to get it done. Decided on Daytona 4 level heated grips because they are the least bulky ones I have found. Other models seem to have huge controls that stick out a lot, the really flash ones that go beside the throttle are too expensive and more involved to install, plus 4 levels of heat is pretty good because Brisbane doesn't get that cold and it will be nice to vary the temperature accordingly.

    Note that I have no techinical training and only thing I know about circuits is from high school! I documented everything including my mistakes, hopefully people can learn from them too. I have to thank Bumblebeeman1150 for his tireless help and a fantastic thread I found that a guy wrote on his heated grips installation.

    This is the heated grips kit, the white tube is an inline fuse. Very high quality unit. I didn't use the bar end caps because I already have bar end weights. IMG_20130223_163016.

    Nearly freaked out when i saw the sizes were different! Then remembered that there is a throttle sleeve on the right, so it needs to be wider, doh!

    Drew out a diagram on how I want to wire this up, then gathered materials. I bought all the stuff from Jaycar, the guys at the Woolloongabba were so helpful!

    Can't insert anymore pictures (limit is 5), continue on next post...
  2. Continued...

    I bought one of those automotive relays with an inbuilt fuse, so neat! I got a plastic housing for the fuse and a 10A fuse to replace the 30A one there came with the relay.
    IMG_20130223_162256. IMG_20130223_162311.

    Also got a ready-made connector for the replay, but it had a otherwise closed output of 87A which I won't use (just tape up the wire).

    I did buy some heat resistent glue from Bunnings but didn't end up using any because the grips were so tight on the handlebars! I will probably use the Selley's Quick Fix on the right grip edges later on because I have been told that when the grips heat up, it could expand and roll on the handlebars.

    I got 1m each of red and black wire to extend the kit wiring, some crimp connectors for those wires going to the battery and those fantastic wire heat-shrink connectors with a solder in the middle. You need a heat torch to melt the solder and shrink the plastic sleeve. Nifty.


    I labelled the relay connection wires based on my diagram, before I started to solder the wires, save me making any mistakes, the labels are still on there, I kinda like them!

    Next, the trickiest part is finding a switched power source and tap into that wire with the insulation displacement connectors (Ha! fancy right?). Those red thingies in the kit are so cool, find a wire and it lets you tap into it with another wire, very neat. I am glad they can be re-opened and use again and again because I had to try quite a few wires!!

    Continue on next post...
  3. Continued...

    I will show you the correct wire I used first, will list my mistakes last to show you which wires not to use!

    Behind the left side cover, the fuse box, what a beautiful sight, after all my mistakes.

    You want the "Turn, Stop" wire, which is WHITE WITH GREEN STRIPE. It is VERY TIGHT on my 2011 CB400, very very hard to get to even cutting away some electrical tape, I was worried about pulling too hard on the wire and displacing it from the fuse box :/ Somehow managed to get the displacement connectors in, I have very sore fingers and nails currently :(

    The red wire at the bottom is my tap wire going to the relay, the red clip is the displacement connector, it has to clip on the White/Green Stripe wire from the fuse box and have the red tap wire clipped in beside it. Of course, this is all for testing out the electricals first, the wiring is only twisty-tied for length at the moment, nothing permanent until it works!

    The soldered wires in place. I would definitely tuck the wires properly behind the headlight and through under the covers and frame because it is easier when they are not soldered in and can be threaded more easily! I learnt this the hard way...


    I turned the ignition on and switched on the heated grips, lights up! YAY!! Note this is after a long day of failed wires and patching up wires that didn't work, so it was a relief to say the least. Now on to the grips, the "easy" part...

    Left grip came off with some patient twisting, although the rubber was really hard on the hands, so I wore my gardening gloves after getting sore palms.

    Continue on next post...
  4. #4 hongyi77, Feb 25, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2013

    Putting on the left grip was not too difficult, twist in little at a time, careful not to bend the heated grips. The wires need to point downwards where you would tie them to the rest of the cables from the handlebars.

    A bit of space at the end, I managed to close it off with my bar end weights. It can be done tight as left grip doesn't move, right one will be trickier.
    Getting the right grip off is trickier because I can't twist it hard with the throttle sleeve on. Plus, the controls are a bit loose on my bars from the previous owner not drilling holes in the Renthal bars for the locator pins and damaged the pins (they are fixed up now but just a bit loose). I decided to cut it off, cheap to replace.

    Ewww, discoloured plastic.


    It is SO HARD to put the right one on!! As you get more on, the more friction there is and the harder it gets :( I have a bruise on my palm pushing this in. In the end, I used a tiny bit of WD40 on each each and FINALLY managed to get it on. There is a tiny gap where I can see the throttle sleeve because I can't move the rubber grip over that bit, it could be a problem with my bars though due to the dodgy bar installation from the previous owner.

    Bar end went on, a bit of friction on the grips which I had before on my VTR, just need to be aware and actively close the throttle rather than relying on it to spring back. Freeplay is still ok.
    Tidy up time!

    Right grip wires join the existing cables quite neatly, I fed the wires behind the headlight cluster to join the heated grip control wires on the left side. Remember to test twist the throttle fully and have enough slack to allow full throttle movement.


    Continue on next post...
  5. Continued...

    Bottom view of left grip

    Top view of left grip. The heated grip controls are mounted on the left side of the handlebars, you can see it on the right of this picture.

    I like the little red button on the left! The wires look a bit looser on the right because there needs to be enough slack for the throttle to be opened fully.

    The wires are tucked under the lip of the tank and taped in with cloth tape. Luckily the inline fuse happen to be just behind the side cover, I stuck some super thick weatherseal under it in case it moves. I removed both side covers to tape the wires in properly.


    That is the project finished for now, ride to work tomorrow and see how the grips are.

    Mistakes and warnings in next post!
  6. #6 hongyi77, Feb 25, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2013
    My first attack was behind the headlight, took it off and tried to find a wire, so confused because there is so much stuff there and so crowded. Gave up on that...

    I was determined that one of the wires from the thick bundle under the seat must be it, even went as far as tracing the wires from the rear lights by taking off the rear cowl.


    Tail light wires, I know they are green!! so surely....they must work...

    All 4 green tail light wires are combined to one green wire, so I tested on this but NO :( Still don't understand why. Before this, I tried other wires in this cluster based on the wire colouring I found online for Honda, all wrong! Grrrr. Lots of patch ups here....

    I forgot to add these pictures before:

    A closer look at those solder connection thingies, my portable butane heat torch/solder tool and butane lighter.

    Twisty-tying the grips on to guage wire length needed.

    If anyone is thinking of installing heated grips, go for it! It is not that hard, just take your time and have the stuff ready so you don't have to run around getting stuff. The stuff you need is also pretty cheap.
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