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2007 R6 - Problem

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by inspired, Apr 14, 2013.

  1. Hi all,

    I've just come into possession of a 2007 R6, very cheaply from a pretty honest bloke who appears to have been pissed off with a problem he wasn't able to fix. He told me about the fault, but I didn't really pay too much attention due to the price ($3800), although it is also a repaired write off. I test rode the bike and it rode exactly as he stated with an intermittent problem with the bike stalling at low revs. It appears he just wanted to get rid of it pretty quick. I thought it may be an easy fix and didn't really give the problem too much credit. I hope I haven't just bought a lemon.

    A bit of a background to the problem.

    When coming back through the gearing preparing to stop, the revs appear to just drop right off, and there is no real ability to use the gearing to slow down due to the revs dropping quickly, I am reliant more on the brakes than gearing, and I have to go down more rushed than usual through the gears. Once the bike comes into first gear, the bike will then drop out completely. I then have to start the bike again which sometimes does not want to keep idling. This problem is intermittent though.

    After doing some research on numerous other forums, there seems to be quite a bit of reference to the throttle position sensor, and that if this sensor is faulty, it can display similar symptoms. Most of these owners have stated they have cleaned, removed and replaced the sensor only with the problem to return some months later. I haven't seen a diagnostic code come up as yet during the fault, but from these posts, it seems to be a regular problem.

    I'm about to head outside today and have a bit of a play with her, to see if cleaning the sensor will do any good.

    1). Has anyone encountered this problem before, and can anyone recommend a solution?

    2). Does anyone with a bit of nouse know if the tps (throttle position sensor) from later model r6 or other bikes altogether would be able to be substituted?

    3). Does anyone know where I can get a detailed manual for the 2007 R6?
  2. yeap sounds the same as my 05 was like.
    1)pull the sensor off spray contact cleaner in the hole and twist a few times to alllow it soak through.
    2)Allow a some time for it to dry out and re position the tps using the diagnostics mode.
    3) go ride
    service manuals can be found all over the web. the r6 specific forums are a good place to start.
  3. Hi bluer6,

    Did you have any further problems after cleaning it?

    Do you know of anyone who has had to replace the tps completely?

    After eventually getting to where the thing is, I noticed that there were markings in white pen (which I assume marks the position which the tps is to be reset).

    Does anyone know whether they mark them when setting during the original build?
  4. Mine is fine(i did give it a good soaking though)
    pen markings are just factory marking so they can see if its been fiddled with or not as far as i know

    setting were something like 17-24? in diagnostics mode from memory(its easy to get into so i dont know why you would worry about doing it any other way..)
  5. So, would I be correct in saying that it most likely has not been tampered with as yet? Mind you, it doesn't have the torx or security screws that some people talk about.
  6. Nope, wouldn't have thought so. I've got an earlier model, similar issue, have cleaned it a couple of times now, all fine. Not a hard job, but is fiddly and easy to drop a screw ... so if yours are missing I'd say that's what's happened when someone's cleaned (or replaced) it in the past.
    Also have the white markings, took them as an indication to confirm things properly lined up (line carries through to screw).

    Here's a 'how to' on cleaning it, is for an older model than yours but might be of some help: http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97305
    And a list of manuals:
    • Like Like x 1
  7. Cheers mate,

    Im gonna get stuck into it tomorrow. I hope this solves the problem.

    Ill update this thread upon completion and test ride.

    Thanks for the links. Much appreciated.
    • Like Like x 1
  8. Hi again,

    Well, I pulled the throttle position sensor out and had a good look at it, and it appears that there was a very small hole down the centre of the sensor. I sprayed (with a good dose) down the hole, but I didn't really think that it would do much good. The TPS appears to be a sealed unit, and I don't know if the internals of the TPS can actually be cleaned or lubricated at all this way. The hole is about two (2) or three (3) millimetres in diameter.

    I then placed a screwdriver in the drive end, and moved the sensor drive from side to side to work what cleaner I could through the TPS. After placing the TPS up near my ear, I could hear that there was a slight clicking sound coming from turning it in a clockwise rotation. This was intermittent though.

    After getting it back together, I took it for a good squirt, but after the second stop, it started doing the same old trick again.

    I think Ill be ordering a new TPS and Ill see how that goes.

    Failing this, Ill be either getting it to the local Frasers or doing some further investigation down the line of air sensors.

    Anyone have any further input?
  9. Have you done a basic service on it? Oil and spark plugs at least.

    You say you haven't seen any diagnostic codes, have you actually checked the diagnostic mode for a list/number of errors? Although if this hasn't been cleared you'll probably at least see the lean angle cut-off switch which could probably be ruled out since its been written off.
  10. Hi Strife,

    No, haven't done the oil or plugs as yet, but the bloke that had it before me said he had a good go at trying to find the fault, but when asked about the tps, he said that his mechanic cleaned it and that's about it.

    I have a feeling that this problem gave the previous owner a headache for a long time, but he doesn't really know what avenues have been pursued.

    Where is this lean angle cut off switch located?
  11. Switch is under the seat, but like I said I would think after checking for codes in the diagnostic mode it would make sense to rule out the lean angle switch even if it is still listed there because it has probably been on its side.
  12. Cheers mate,

    Ill have a look. I just had a bit of a play and was checking the fault codes, but how do you read them. Just about every code is coming up, but how do I you tell what needs the attention. How do you read it?

    Ive worked out the first one is for the throttle position sensor.

    Mine reads 18 closed and 100 open. I understand that this is a little out, would this make such a difference or cause the problems I am having?
  13. Just went out to the bike again and noticed that in diagnostic mode there is an electrical ringing when the throttle is opened in diag 01. E.g. When I am checking the open/closed settings. Would that be of concern? Has anyone else heard this before when operating the throttle in diag mode? Could this linked to a faulty tps?

    By the way, what is the other mode that comes up?
  14. First go into diagnostic mode and scroll through to number 61 and 62, 62 lists the number of faults so for example 62:2, meaning 2 faults. 61 will tell you specifically what the code for the fault is, so in this case if there were two errors it would flash between 61:15 and 61:30, meaning there is a problem with the TPS and the lean angle switch.

    Note that the codes can range anywhere between 11 and 60 for the number following 61. To find the corresponding code, go to section 8-36 of the manual that was linked before.

    The values for the the TPS seem about right, the recommended is about 15-17 closed and 97-100 open. Although this won't tell you if the TPS is fine as you actually have to test the voltage it's outputting to know if it's faulty or not.

    That's normal, you'll get that when you scroll through the diagnostics.
    If you're talking about the "CO" mode it's to do with the ECU and cylinder adjustments, haven't looked into it that much.
    • Like Like x 1
  15. where abouts are you? i may have a spare sensor to test with and va few other tricks.
  16. Hey mate. Im near Maitland NSW.
  17. Hahaha. Cheers mate for the offer anyway.
  18. Hi,

    Back again. I've just checked with a local Yamaha dealer who gave me a price on the throttle position sensor, and it comes at the sweet price of $350 new:eek:

    I've also had some quotes from a few wreckers who have quoted me around $100 for a second hand one, but this appears a risky move.

    After some deliberation, and after some further research, I've located some further information about what may cause the issue.

    One of the causes was apparently sorted by making adjustments to the throttle body. It can be viewed through a youtube video.


    The only issue I see with this, is that he states to wind the adjusting screws in all the way, then wind back 180 degrees which solves the issue. There are no reference points or actual settings to follow, so it appears to be a bit hit and miss tuning.

    Additionally, there was also another post on another site which states the following;

    'This problem affects all bikes the reason the bike stalls out when idling low or when the clutch is pulled in is because of Fuel/Air/Combustion ....
    Wrong reasons
    1. If it was the spark plugs the bike would run rough in all gears all the time
    2. IF it was Fuel pump you would notice poor performance in all gears and sometimes the bike will not start depending if the pump is punched.
    3. GUYS! It's not the kick stand, I see this answer all the time (makes me laugh)
    4. It is not sensor issue ether because well if sensor is bad whole thing will not work
    5. It is not the clutch cable, because the stall happens then clutch is engaged
    Throttle bodies / VALVES need to be adjusted and synchronized (BY Professional) Do not attempt to do yourself involves opening cam cover and messing with Springs/Valves
    Explained what is happening inside your engine[​IMG]/heads
    ---- Your bike is so many years old and has say 20,000km on it...depending how hard the bike has been ridden in its life this may have to be done sooner... Your Valve operates on Rockers and Springs inside the Cylinder Head... Over time the springs become less springy this requires Shimming of sprigs or if you are lucky (price) simple screw adjustment... As you ride the valves are not closing all the way, you do not feel this because you are traveling at high enough RPM to keep the engine going ....as soon as you engage the clutch it Revs down to 1750RPM, and now that the Valves are not closed properly the combustion stops happening...Simply put your engine chokes its self out'.

    So, so far we have may narrowed it down to two (2) or possibly three (3) issues.

    1). The throttle position sensor is faulty (now appears another hit and miss rectification).

    2). The adjustments in the throttle body are out.

    So, I am thinking that Ill have a go at adjusting the throttle bodies/valves myself. Ill record where the original settings were prior to re-adjusting them, and then give it a go.

    Failing this, Ill get a tune from a 'real' mechanic.

    Should this not rectify the fault, Ill simply proceed to either change out the throttle position sensor, or attempt to check what other sensors may cause the same symptoms.

    On this point, upon disassembling the bike the other day, I noticed that the sensor above the air intake box does not seem to connect properly, but there has been no record of this coming up on the diag mode though.

    Any suggestions, concurrences or disagreements apply within.
  19. what codes is it throwing out?