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2 Stroke oil for my Cagiva Mito

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Ness, Nov 11, 2010.

  1. Hi All,

    I'm wondering if there are any resident 2 stroke race bike experts who can answer a few simple questions.

    Just bought an '09 cagiva mito and the oil needs to be topped up. I am unsure what oil was in there before, but I am planning on putting motul 800 2t 'offroad' fully synthetic oil into it now. Bit overkill I've been informed, but it was what they had so I bought that.

    My questions are, should I/am I able to get rid of the old oil in the oil tank? Or dump the new stuff straight in? I've researched a bit and it is apparently fine to mix semi and fully synthetic.

    #2 The oil I have says 'premix only' and if you're a 2 stroke race bike expert answering my questions, you'll know that my bike does not require me to pre mix the gas and oil. So I'm wondering if this matters, should I not use it? Does anyone know what exactly the difference is between the 800 offroad motul and for example, the 710 2t racing oil?

    Thanks in advance for taking the time out to read and answer if you can. I haven't found any help online for these specific questions that are probably quite simple. Even so, I don't like to do things I don't fully understand!


    Edit: I have a feelings someone is going to point me in the direction of my bike's manual, which does not say anything about refilling the engine oil tank. It does recommend an oil, Agip Racing 2t. I still would like to find out the answers to the above questions :]
  2. Use moul 710 you can use 510
    The 710 is fully synthetic and buy it in 4 litres if you can you shoild be able to get it for around $110

    The 800 is for premix only as stated on the packet and you bike has an injector which injects the oil into the carb if you use 800 it can stuff up your injector

    The 510 is full synthetic if you not going to be riding too hard for a while you could use this as its a little while
    But i would use 710

    Motul grade there oils on application 510 is more riding around not too hard 710 is more for track and race and 800 is purely for track/pre mix

    I have also tried agip 2t speed Which i dont really like blows alot more smole than 710 in my opinion

    And one more point check your manual if it came with one as my bike didnt
    Hope this helps
  3. Look, there are a few oils getting around. It all started in the 70's with castor bean oil, which was pressed from castor beans and then fermented to give the final product. Since then we've gone through mineral based and synthetic based oils, right up the the top of the line ester based ones.

    All of them will make bugger all difference, in my opinion, and in my 10,000km of two-stroke experience I found a regular 'JASO-FC' rated oil to be more than adequate for my Aprilia RS125 (very similar to your Cagiva Moto).

    The oil I chose to use was basic Valvoline '2T Racing Oil' - it is available from Supercheap Auto for about $10 per litre. It meets the required JASO-FC standard and gave me 10,000km of trouble free performance so I can recommend it with the experience to back my vlaim up. Its also a fraction of the cost of the fancy race-oriented stuff, which I have tried and did not really find much of a difference if at all.

    FWIW, the main ratings nowdays are JASO- FB, FC & FD. FB is basic lube associated with lawnmowers and whipper-snippers. FC is high performance lube with minimal ash content, associated with high-output liquid-cooled 2t engines. FD is basically FC with a higher detergency (stops deposits a bit better) and lower flash point (burns a bit more easily) - it is recommended for race machines only, although you can run it in normal machines... but the cost is prohibitive and benefit negligible. After tearing down and rebuilding my RS125 after 10,000km, the topend was fine and combustion chamber quite clean - the simple FC rated Valvoline 'Race' did its job well.

    Cheers - boingk

    PS: That main reason you shouldn't use 'premix only' oils in your engine is because their lubricity changes dramatically with temperature and they can become caustic. Exposing them to other oils may also change their viscosity to the point where they clog the injector units. I would not recommend using them in an injector system, and if premixed would recommend a 1:50 ratio for normal riding or a 1:33 ratio track-only use.
  4. We found Elf HTX976 to be a far better product than Motul 800 in our 125GP bike...can be a bit difficult to find though.

    Racefuels is the local distributor..

    Mark Tierney
    Director, Race Fuels Pty Ltd: Agency for Elf Racing Australia
    Mobile: 0419 511 517
    Office Phone: (03) 9686 8645
    Email: info@racefuels.com.au
    NSW: (02) 9767 4545 = MRT Performance
  5. Hey Mate,

    nice bike! I ride home on Aprilia rs125 and pulled up beside a Mito the other day. We had a nice cruise for a while, was lovely to ride behind another two stroke :). I had not seen one up close and really like the look of it. Do you take it to the track? Doing my first one late Jan if you are interested, would be nice to have a few two strokes there.

    I always use Motul 710. Mainly because lots of people say to.

  6. Agree with boingk. I use 800 in the motox bikes, 710 in the RGV. Then went to the Valvoline 2t Racing OIl after the second rebuild. Just pulled it apart again for another rebuild, mind you I went a little longer than I should have, 16,000k instead of 12,000k, but no adverse affects and showed no more signs of wear compared to the Motul. That's 1 full season of track days included as well as mostly spurs.

    Exactly the same amount of gunk in the powervalves after each 1000k cleanup.

    Really no need to go to the Elf or Motuls in the Mito.
  7. I ran Castrol TTS or Motul 710 in my RS.

    TTS is cheaper, I didn't notice any difference in performance

  8. Haven't been to the track yet, but very interested!!
  9. I always used Castrol TTS Power1 Racing - i think it was called, in my mildly modified RS250. Worked nicely, and was cheaper than Motul 710.
  10. TTS is indeed cheaper and just as good as 710, and in turn I found that Valvoline 'Race' was just as good as TTS... but sells for only $10 per litre. Comfirmed by full engine inspection come rebuild time.

    Only difference would be TTS's lower flash point. This would make a minimal difference that would be desireable on the racetrack (possibly a slight gain in responsiveness) but otherwise isn't noticable in day to day use.

    Cheers - boingk
  11. Thanks to everyone who has replied to my questions. Because of you all and my own research I have much more information than before. However, happy to keep reading anything anyone else has to add that they think is valuable and hasn't been mentioned yet. You guys rock! (y)
  12. I recently tried some shell speed 2t or something dont no what it was called seems allright cost $10 from the servo and i ran it down the highway from nelson bay to sydney f3 & old road from gosford sitting on 9-11000 rpm on freeway the whole f3 bike was fine will be cleaning my powervalve today or tomorow.
    Im never paying for motul710 again unless i get a 2t track bike but then i will premix
  13. Hey guys. Just on this oil topic.

    I put some Castrol TTS in my RS125 and I think it has Motul in there already.
    Only after I put it in did I realise that the Castrol was this black liquid. Should I have drained it before putting in the Castrol ?