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10w-40 oil

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by morgan, Jul 22, 2008.

  1. Hi there,

    Im looking for a shop (pref in syd) that sells a 10w-40 mineral motorcycle oil.

    Ive been looking around but havent seen one yet

    oh and must be SG rated..


  2. Go a fully synthetic car oil. It will not only be fine, it will be better for the bike.
  3. How will this react with the clutch, increased slippage/

    Cars have seperate gearbox lubrication, bike is combined remember.

    Just wondering, could end up an expensive mistake.
  4. you know that $5 for 4litres in the back of the KMart isle? That'll be mineral, 20W50 (same as 10W40 unless you are planning regular sub zero runs) SG (or SF) and will cause no problems at all for the bike or clutch, and you'll save money.
  5. u can get grade 10w-40 at most supercheap stores, its a castrol fully synthetic grade, its a race oil, and isnt cheap. not sure its SG rated or not, but its looks good. it costs 60 for 4 or 5 lites of the stuff.
  6. Fully synthetic is fine with wet clutches. higher grades of mineral oil often cause problems with wet clutches, but fully synthetic is fine.
  7. Rimula X 10w40. Available all over the place, and specced up the wazoo.
    Of course, you can pay double for a picture of a motorcycle on the bottle, your choice. :p
    SG is an ANCIENT spec, it is getting hard to find. There are some great automotive mineral oils out there with teh SG spec though, most of the "older engines" oils are SG or SH. However, they're usually thicker weights for teh old oil burners.
    For an engine that specifies SG, you wil be able to happily run SH-SJ no problems.
    Newer is not alwyas better, and this is definitely true of the more modern oils.
    SL and on is where you get issues with greatly reduced high pressure additives which can cause significant problems with cam lobes and gear faces, two areas that NEED the additive.
    The high pressure additives were reduced to make life easier on various emissions components, and the SL-SM specs are teh oils that this happened in. It's not just a slight reduction in the additives either, it's been reduced to less than 5% of what it was, which is fine in a modern roller lifter/rocker engine, but no good for engines with solid cam followers(most all bikes, older cars).
    This great reduction in additives has not affected teh heavy duty diesel oils as yet, but some current "light duty" diesel oils have been affected (due to teh huge increase of the light duty diesel fleet, and emissions requirements being imposed on them). I forget the current spec to look out for with diesel oils.

    Regards, Andrew.
  8. plus 1 regular rimula x is the go for bikes it's overspec something chronic

    try here for all the good oil www.bobistheoilguy.com
  9. They also stock the full-synthetic Fuchs Silkolene 10W-40 motorcycle oil which definitely is SG rated, and from memory I think much cheaper than the Castrol.
    Castrol may claim their oils are "race" oil to justify higher prices, but really you're getting anything extra for your money. In fact I've found their oils to be considerably worse than cheaper offerings from Fuchs and Penrite (even comparing full-synthetic Castrol with semi-synthetic Penrite).
  10. Valvoline engine armour will probably fit the bill

    On special at autoburn now.

    I've used it for years, no probs, change oil and filter every 5-6 thousand.

    roughly $4 dollars a litre
  11. I use Motul 7100 4T 10w-40 fully synthetic in my CBR250RR and it is so smooth. Excellent.
  12. 1. Castrol does not produce fully synthetic. Marketing spin- it is not synthetic, but hydrocracked mineral oil.

    2. Agree with JD- not many people at all have had good experiences with Castrol. History repeats itself. There are far better, and in most cases cheaper, offerings which perform far better.
  13. Probably explains why it isn't very good then. Not sure on their bike oils but I know their "synthetic race oils" for cars have a notorious reputation for resulting in extremely high oil consumption.
    They seem to be a lot lower viscosity than what they claim to be, even at temperature, which is certainly not good for an engine even though it may make it seem more powerful by reducing resistance (at the expense of increased wear).

    Edit: Oh and since we're on the topic do you know which of the common brands produce true synthetic oils, and not just stuff labelled as "synthetic"?
  14. I assume if it states "synthetic blend" it's not synthetic, but if it states "fully synthetic" it is synthetic.

    If that is not the case I would certainly like to know.
  15. Ok guys for some its common knowledge that just cause its labelled synthetic it doesnt have to actually be a synthetic- there was a court case which (other parties were involved but the main ones were) castrol and mobil argued their case for the synthetic debate. In a nutshell, Castrol successfully argued group III severely hydrocracked mineral oil no longer resembled the original form, therefore can be marketed as synthetic.

    I will go into more detail when I have time. Might take a while- I am going out bush for a week, but I promise I will elaborate, and give an indication of true synthetics. Beware- there isnt many.
  16. Yeah I was sort of aware of the "fake" synthetic issue - which is why I've tended to just use oils that are at least honest and label themselves as "semi-synthetic".
    Be nice to know which are the oils that are worth the extra money - other than Mobil 1 (which I'm personally not going to touch given it's past history with light aircraft).
  17. Well, here's one brand people should be looking at. Made specifically for four-stroke motorcycles with integrated gearboxes. Less than $40 an oil change on my little high-reving CBR250:

    Let's face it, oil isn't the area to be too tight on the wallet. That said, you don't have to fork out cash for a product that doesn't warrant it.

    Castrol appears to be popular in the US and I think a few of the new Honda CBR1000RRs are being sold with Castrol over there. US customers are experiencing inconsistent results, with some finding their bikes are using wayyy too much oil during run-in.

    A few are using fully synthetic oils during run-in, too. Definately not good.
  18. Well, I suppose as long as you don't mind your cams running dry for an extra 10-15 seconds every cold start, as the thicker oil makes it's way through the passages to the top of your engine :wink: .

    Use car oil by all means (I always have, except for one time when I got a big crate of bike oil for cheap in a bankruptcy sale) but I wouldn't go against the manufacturer's recommendation for the cold viscosity. Too much experience with older Jap engines where the cams needed all the help they could get :grin: .
  19. PatB- sorry I have to pull you up there

    Boundary lubrication is a fantastic effect of quality oils. Boundary lubrication occurs after shutdown, most of the oil drains to the sump (as we know) but some remains. This lubrication will last anywhere between a couple of weeks to a couple of months, depending on the product. This boundary lubrication will adequately protect components on startup, PROVIDING excess pressure is not applied (ie dont redline it first thing in the morning).

    The time difference between a 10w and 15w reaching operating pressure at all components in typical australian temperatures is negligible. More important is to choose a quality oil, and allow some time for full pressure at all components to be achieved.

    To give you an idea.

    I have a VT Commodore, that I am running 25w60. Factory reccommends down to 10w30 (keep in mind she has done 230,000k's). I get regular dielectric testing, infrequent oil analasys. Through this testing, I am not finding any excessive amount of wear materials.
  20. Maybe so. However, having seen an awful lot of f*^ked bike cylinder heads as a result of lube problems over the years, I'm disinclined to take chances.

    Yes, there are a number of factors at play. Irregular (or non-existent) oil changes, abuse of cold engines and use of cheap'n'nasty oils all play a part.

    However, you note the negligible time difference to reach full pressure at "typical Australian temperatures". I'm forced to disagree here. Years ago in the UK, when the possibility of a delay in lube effectiveness was pointed out to me, I did some rough comparison tests, on the old CB400N I had at the time, by filling with a 20W-50 and timing how long it took for the start up top end rattle to go away, then dropping the oil, letting things cool/drain and doing the same with 10W-40. Ambient temp was about 10 degrees or so, which is well within the bounds of possibility for a morning start up in much of Australia for much of the year. The difference I got was consistently (over the three test cycles that I could afford the oil for :) ) in the 10-15 second bracket, hence the figures I quoted.

    Now, boundary lubrication might be doing all the protection that needs to be done during that 10-15 seconds. I had no way of measuring it. But I wouldn't bet my cylinder head on it. Especially given that may bikes of the air-cooled era (my area of experience) had chokes that were either on or off and tended to bring the bike to life from stone cold at an instant 3000 rpm.

    A VT Commodore is not a valid comparison with any motorcycle engine apart from maybe the Boss Hoss. Mass market car engines are basically immune to owner abuse. Bike engines are not.