Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

'07 600s - I really want one

Discussion in 'Bike Reviews, Questions and Suggestions' started by tmg, Nov 2, 2007.

  1. OK, Don't flame me. I know I said I wanted a Hyosung, but that's now history thank god :) I got a valid excuse for wanting an '07 600cc race bike - my mates new R6.

    I went riding with him last night and man, them new bikes are amazing! Here I am on my 1980 CB750/900 (motor swap), madly changing through gears - cause I hate the sound my muffler gives off between 4000/6000rpm - in order to keep up with my mate, and he's just mosee-ing along in first the whole time, awesome exhaust note verberating from the pipe, as we ride up the spagetti road from palmwoods to melany.

    Now I like the R6, and the GSX-R600s, don't get me wrong, they're faaantastic bikes! But, and there's always one of them - I LOVE the ZX6 Ninja. This years model has what I want -> Good looks, Powerful, Undertail Exhaust and in Black, it's just sumptuous to look at =P~.

    Does anyone on here own one? And if so, how do they feel to ride? I've ridden an '04 636, and that was very smooth indeed, but I would like a new bike, even an ex-demo, as they've been run in more often than most, so I could just hop on and ride off straight away.

    The new Honda CBR600 now (to me) looks crappy - very flimsy and breakable (my opinion). the R6 and Ninja 600 look solid and tough. I am able to get the finance as I checked with my bank, so I just need to book in a test ride and take one for a blat....Just though I would ask here first.
  2. You want a Supersport, black, shiny, powerful, fantastic (read litre-bike like) midrange, and an undertail exhaust?

  3. Nah he said a 600cc flux! :p :LOL:
  4. :LOL: Yeah Flux, a 600 brudda!!! :LOL: Although that is a bloody nice pic - **saves as wallpaper**
  5. At the end of the day, most of the 600's and even 1000's for that matter are so similar in spec's that for us mere mortals it really just comes down to the users preference.

    Take a few for a ride and see what feels comfortable for you. If they all feel good, just buy the bike you think looks best haha.

    Personally, I'd go the r6. They ride great, are well built and look the biz :grin:
  6. You said a race bike? 675cc triples can race alongside 600cc fours just fine in Australia. No problem there. Just take one for a test ride at the very least.
  7. Hey Flux, those knee sliders look pretty shiny................... :cool: :p :LOL:
  8. New sliders tend to look like that. :grin: It's fun scuffing them up again. :cool:

  9. That's an awesome pic
  10. THAT'S the pic I was lookin' for........ :wink:
  11. So far I've ridden the R6, GSX-R600 and ZX6R. The ZX6R was an '04 model, and was a 636, but it was very smooth. The Gixxer was twitchier than a kid on a sugar high, and the R6 felt smaller than the other two, but the ride of the R6 was unsurpassed - so nimble and precise.

    I've never been able to sit or ride these 3 consecutivly yet, which is something I would like to do myself to really get a feel for them properly.
  12. How can I say this without sounding like a kid...ah, um...hmmm...

    OK, think I got something mature. I am getting the ZX6R. I don't just want this, I NEED this bike. My old honda is falling to bits - the brake calipers leak, it's old, it's heavy and boring when I am riding with my mates. I need and deserve better than this, which is why I am getting the Ninja.

    I wasn't able to get an ex-demo, which means I need to run the engine in - I will need helpful advise regarding this too. I will be making sure I get used to it - the redline begins at 16,500rpm!!! :LOL: All the reviews I've read have nothing but good to say about it too, and since it has a bit more torque than the R6, it'll suit me fine.

    How much milage to the tank do the new Ninjas get btw? I read a posting on this site saying that the '05 model gets around 190??? from memory. I guess it all depends on how you ride it, but I can't wait! :D Will be getting new gear soon aswell.
  13. Congrats. The fuel efficiency will vary as the engine is worn in. Very sweet bike, I personally want to have an affair with an 05 matte blue 6r - just waiting another year or two to justify a bike that extreme (skill + financially :LOL: ).
  14. So how exactly do I run it in? I've read countless contrdictory topics on it on these forums, as well as ones linked to from here, and some say go hard, where others say to read the manual on how to do it.

    I really do not want to screw this part of owning the bike up. It will make or break the performance of the bike.
  15. My 2c from when you pick the bike up:

    Buy yourself a replacement oil filter, and some oil to put into it - some 15W-50 semi-synth. Let it warm up fully, like for a good 10 minutes. Then take it for a 30-50km ride. Accelerate at around half-throttle position up to around half peak rpm, and then brake fairly hard with the clutch left out. You want the engine to be getting braked due to rapid deceleration. Obviously make sure that there's no traffic behind you when you brake.

    Do this for as much as you can for the first 30-50kms. Don't worry that you'll look silly doing it - just do it. It's only for 30 minutes anyway. All that firm acceleration and deceleration will do the vast bulk of the break-in.

    When you get home, drain the oil and replace the filter, and re-fill.

    After that - ride it around like normal. Don't baby it - but don't cane it. In short - don't worry too much about hurting it. Just be wary of WOT and high revs for extended periods for the next 600kms. After 600kms, you can be more adventurous, but work it with purpose. Do 3/4 throttle runs to 3/4 peak rpm's on purpose, and back off, and do that a few times, and aside from that keep riding it like normal until around 1000kms. From 1000-1500kms, go WOT and up to peak rpm on occasion, but don't go wailing away at that speed for sustained periods (like more than 10 seconds).

    IMO, you can baby a new engine too much, just as you can wail away on a new engine too hard. Change your oil early (30-50kms) and keep varying the revs, even if it means repeatedly clicking up and down the gear box while sitting at a constant speed. This will also help your gearbox smoothness in future. Don't be scared to give it a bit of stick, but don't peg it and go drag-racing and setting top-speed runs on it either.

    Work it well, and with intent and purpose, and it'll be fine.
  16. well if you follow the guide they give you, you won't go bad.

    Personally, I think its alrite to give it a blast so long as you aren't doing it all the time.
  17. I have read that running engines in, it is important to rev it through the range and not sit on just low revs. So its not revs that is the problem, its load that u must avoid. So as above, WOT is not required. You can quite easily move thru the entire rev range on low throttle and that is what it needs.

    Makes sense really, an open throttle means maximum air, means strongest bang, means most hurty.
  18. Higher revs means greater friction. Friction effects go up with the square of the rpm rate. It's not a linear thing. If the rings and parts aren't bedded in properly, they'll have high spot points that need to wear down. If all the load is being borne on those small points, rather than being distributed evenly across a properly bedded in mating between two components, and you rev it high, the loading and friction on those spot points will be immense. The real danger here (or so I've read about) is micro-seizures, where the high points get so hot that they'll temporarily weld themselves together before the momentum of the engine breaks the micro-seizure, creating a jagged/scarred surface that never beds in properly.

    So yes - high revs can be just as dangerous as high load (WOT). Work up to it steadily.

    Edit: BTW - congrats on your choice tmg!! :grin:
  19. Thanks for that Flux. I thought you ran an engine in on mineral oil though? I read that synthetic is too slippery to allow the bearings to bed-in, and that mineral oil is more suited to this task. Is it that the bike shop puts mineral oil in first so you can wear it all in, then I put that semi-synth in when I change the oil?

    It could be nerves. I've never been very good at this.
  20. I said semi-synth, not full-synth.

    Semi-synth is a blend of mineral and synth.

    Don't know about Kawasaki, but Triumph recommends to never put in straight mineral oil. I guess it's more the deposits that it could leave which is of concern.